TEST 2: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack
IMPORTANT: This test section only applies if one or two spark plug wires that are connected to non-paired cylinders did not fire spark in TEST 1.
In this test section, you're gonna test for spark directly on the ignition coil pack tower of the spark plug wire that did not spark in TEST 1.
We'll disconnect the spark plug wire that didn't fire spark (in TEST 1) from its ignition coil tower and insert the spark tester into the tower.
Once the spark tester is setup in the tower (and Grounded), we'll crank the engine to see if the tower is firing spark.
The result of this test will indirectly let us know if the spark plug wire is bad or if we need to keep on digging a little more.
Let's get started:
- 1
Remove the spark plug wire that did not fire off spark from the ignition coil pack.
- 2
Place the spark tester directly on the ignition coil tower of the spark plug wire you just removed (see photo above).
- 3
Connect the spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal with a battery jump start cable.
- 4
Have your helper crank the engine. The engine may start, so be careful.
- 5
You're gonna get one of two results: spark or NO spark.
Let's take a look at what your test result means:
CASE 1: You got spark. This is the correct test result.
You can conclude that the spark plug wire is defective if you have:
- Confirmed that the spark tester did not spark when attached to the spark plug wire (TEST 1).
- In this test section, confirmed that the spark plug wire's tower does spark.
Replace all of the spark plugs with a new set.
CASE 2: You got NO spark. The ignition coil is bad. Replacing the ignition coil will solve the misfire condition and the misfire code lighting up the check engine light (CEL) on the instrument cluster.
TEST 3: Testing For Spark At The Ignition Coil Pack
IMPORTANT: This test section only applies if two spark plug wires that are connected to paired cylinders (1 & 5, 2 & 6, or 3 & 4) did not fire spark in TEST 1.
You're gonna test one ignition coil tower at a time for spark. The best and safest way to accomplish this is by removing the spark plug wire that didn't spark from the ignition coil tower and then inserting the spark tester into the tower (as shown in the illustration above).
Then, you'll Ground the spark tester with a battery jump-start cable to the battery's negative (-) terminal. Finally, you'll crank the engine and see if the spark tester sparks.
Since we're testing two ignition coil towers, pick one to test first and then test the second one.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Remove one of the spark plug wires that did not fire off spark from the ignition coil pack.
- 2
Place the spark tester directly in the ignition coil tower (see photo above).
- 3
Connect the spark tester to the battery negative (-) terminal with a battery jump start cable.
- 4
Have your helper crank the engine.
- 5
The spark tester should spark as the engine cranks.
- 6
Repeat tests 1 thru' 5 on the other ignition coil tower whose spark plug wire did not fire off spark.
Let's take a look at what your test result means:
CASE 1: You got spark from only one tower. This result lets you know that the ignition coil is bad. Replace the ignition coil.
CASE 2 If you got spark from both towers. This result lets you know that the ignition coil is good and that the spark plug wires are bad. Replace all of the spark plug wires as a set.
CASE 3: You got NO spark from both towers. Generally, this test result tells you that the ignition coil bad.
To make sure that it's bad, I recommend that you confirm that the ignition coil is getting its activation signal.
If you got no spark from the towers that feed spark to cylinders 1 and 5 go to: TEST 5: Activation Signal For Cylinders 1 And 5.
If you got no spark from the towers that feed spark to cylinders 2 and 6 go to: TEST 6: Activation Signal For Cylinders 2 And 6.
If you got no spark from the towers that feed spark to cylinders 3 and 4 go to: TEST 7: Activation Signal For Cylinders 3 And 4.