How To Test The Igniter (1996-1997 1.6L Toyota Corolla)

TEST 3: Testing The Igniter Control Signal

Testing The Igniter Control Signal. How To Test The Igniter (1996, 1997 1.6L 4A-FE Toyota Corolla)

Here's what you've confirmed so far:

  • The ignition coil isn't sparking.
  • The igniter is receiving 10 to 12 Volts DC (TEST 1).
  • The igniter case is properly Grounded (TEST 2).

Now, we're gonna check if the fuel injection computer (ECM) is sending an IGT activation signal to the igniter.

Like I mentioned earlier, when you crank the engine, the computer creates the IGT signal using input from the distributor's pickup coil and CKP sensor.

If the computer doesn't send the IGT signal to the igniter, it's not gonna activate the ignition coil to spark.

To check for the presence of the IGT signal, we'll use an LED test light (while cranking the engine).

IMPORTANT: Don't use a regular 12 Volt test light instead of an LED one —it could damage the igniter. If you need an LED test light, you can get one here: Oznium Flush Mount 12V LED Light (at: amazon.com).

IMPORTANT: The igniter must remain connected to its electrical connector for this test to function. To access the IGT signal inside the wire, you'll need to use either a back probe on the connector or a wiring piercing probe. You can see an example of a wiring piercing probe here: Wire Piercing Probe Review (Power Probe PWPPPPP01) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

Here's what you have to do:

  1. 1

    Hook up the red LED wire to the yellow with green stripe (YEL/GRN) wire on the igniter's electrical connector.

    The YEL/GRN wire connects to female terminal number 2 on the igniter's 5-wire connector (check the illustration above).

    NOTE: Keep the igniter plugged into its 5-wire connector.

  2. 2

    Attach the black LED wire to the battery's negative (-) terminal.

  3. 3

    Once the LED light is set up, have a helper crank the engine while you watch the LED.

  4. 4

    If the IGT signal is there, the LED light should flash ON and OFF in steady pulses while the engine cranks.

Here's what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF. That's the result you wanna see —it means the igniter's getting its activation signal from the fuel injection computer.

Now, you need to check if the igniter is actually sending the activation signal to the ignition coil. Go to: TEST 4: Testing The Ignition Coil Activation Signal.

CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF. That means the igniter isn't getting its activation (IGT) signal from the fuel injection computer.

If the igniter doesn't get the IGT signal, it's not gonna trigger the ignition coil, which means no spark to the distributor.

The most common reason for a missing IGT signal is a bad distributor pickup coil. Your next step is to test the distributor's pickup coil (G2 sensor) and the crankshaft position sensor:

TEST 4: Testing The Ignition Coil Activation Signal

Testing The Ignition Coil Activation Signal. How To Test The Igniter (1996, 1997 1.6L 4A-FE Toyota Corolla)

By now, your previous tests have confirmed:

  • The ignition coil isn't sparking.
  • The igniter's getting 10 to 12 Volts (TEST 1).
  • The igniter's case has a solid chassis Ground connection (TEST 2).
  • The igniter is receiving the IGT activation signal (TEST 3).

Now, it's time for the final check —making sure the igniter is actually activating the ignition coil to spark.

This +B2 signal is key because it's what tells the ignition coil to fire spark. To test for it, we're gonna use a 12 Volt test light.

The signal is sent to the ignition coil by the black (BLK) wire that connects to female terminal number 5 of the igniter's 5-wire connector.

IMPORTANT: The igniter has to stay connected to its electrical connector for this test to work. To tap into the IGT signal inside the wire, you'll need either a back probe on the connector or a wiring piercing probe. You can check out an example of a wiring piercing probe here: Wire Piercing Probe Review (Power Probe PWPPPPP01) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

Let's get started:

  1. 1

    Clip the alligator end of the 12V test light to the battery's negative (-) post.

  2. 2

    Use the test light's metal probe to tap into the BLK wire that connects to female terminal 5.

    NOTE: The probe needs to pierce through the wire's insulation and touch the copper inside.

    IMPORTANT: Make sure to pierce the wire as far from the connector as possible.

  3. 3

    Have a helper crank the engine while you watch the test light.

  4. 4

    The 12V test light should flash ON and OFF repeatedly the whole time the engine is cranking.

Here's what your test result means:

CASE 1: The 12V test light flashed ON and OFF. This is the correct and expected test result.

This test result confirms that the igniter is working —it's creating and sending the activation signal to the ignition coil like it should.

If you've already checked and confirmed the following:

  • The ignition coil isn't sparking.
  • The igniter is getting battery power and has a solid Ground (TEST 1 and TEST 2).
  • The igniter is receiving the IGT activation signal (TEST 3).
  • The igniter is sending the +B2 signal to the ignition coil (this test section).

Then, you can be sure the ignition coil is bad and needs to be replaced.

CASE 2: The 12V test light DID NOT flash ON and OFF. That means the igniter isn't doing its job.

With this test result, you can confirm the igniter is bad and needs replacing, but only if you've already checked and confirmed:

  • The ignition coil isn't sparking.
  • The igniter is getting battery power and has a solid Ground (TEST 1 and TEST 2).
  • The igniter is receiving the IGT activation signal (TEST 3).
  • The igniter IS NOT creating the +B2 signal to the ignition coil (this test section).

More 1.6L Toyota Corolla Tutorials

You can find a complete list of 1.6L Toyota Corolla tutorials and wiring diagrams in this index:

Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:

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