
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor —it's such a small part, but it plays a big role in getting your minivan started and keeping it running. The good news? You can test it yourself with nothing more than a regular multimeter.
In this tutorial, I'll walk you through how to test the CKP sensor step by step —right in your own driveway.
Whether you've been wrenching for years or are just diving into DIY car repairs, this test is simple and totally doable.
And if you're already planning to replace the sensor without testing, no worries —I'll show you where to get a good deal on one.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Bad CKP Sensor.
- How The CKP Sensor Functions.
- Should I Just Replace The CKP Sensor Without Testing It?
- Where To Buy The CKP Sensor And Save.
- Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector Pinout.
- TEST 1: Testing The CKP Signal With A Multimeter.
- TEST 2: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts.
- TEST 3: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
- More 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan Tutorials.
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 3.3L V6 Chrysler Town & Country: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007.
- 3.3L V6 Dodge Caravan: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007.
- 3.3L V6 Dodge Grand Caravan: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007.
WIRING DIAGRAMS:
- Ignition System Wiring Diagram (2001-2003 3.3L Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
- Ignition System Wiring Diagram (2004-2007 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
IGNITION SYSTEM TESTS:
- How To Test The CMP Sensor (2004-2007 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
- How To Test The Coil Pack (2001-2008 Chrysler 3.3L, 3.8L) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
OTHER CKP SENSOR TEST TUTORIALS:
- How To Test The CKP Sensor (1990-1993 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CKP Sensor (1994-1997 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CKP Sensor (1998-2000 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CKP Sensor (2001-2003 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
Symptoms Of A Bad CKP Sensor
The CKP sensor works hand in hand with the CMP sensor —both are critical components of the ignition system that give the PCM the info it needs to start and keep your engine running.
When the crank sensor fails, you'll usually run into one or more of these issues:
- Engine won't start: It cranks when you turn the key to start it, but never actually fires up.
- Hard to start: You have to crank the engine longer than usual before it starts.
- Random stalling: The engine might shut off unexpectedly while idling or driving.
- Rough idle: Surging, stumbling, or occasional misfires when sitting still.
- No power: It feels like the engine has no power or is slow to respond.
- Stored CKP sensor diagnostic trouble code DTC: If the PCM loses the crankshaft position (CKP) signal, you may see one of these codes pop up:
- P0320: No Crank Reference Signal At PCM.
- P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit.
- P0339: Crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent.
How The CKP Sensor Functions
Your minivan's CKP sensor is a 3-wire design —which tells us it's a Hall-Effect sensor that needs both power (5 Volts DC) and Ground to generate its signal.
Both the voltage and the Ground are supplied directly by the PCM —no external relays or fuses involved.
Here are a few key things to keep in mind about how it works:
- The CKP sensor only generates a signal when the engine is turning —either while cranking or during normal operation.
- It produces this signal by reading the slots cut into the flywheel as it spins past the sensor.
- The flywheel has 12 of these slots (3 sets of 4 slots, to be exact), so during one full turn of the crankshaft, the sensor will produce 12 ON (5V) pulses and 12 OFF (0V) dips.
- This rapid ON/OFF switching is what tells the PCM where the crankshaft is at any given moment.
- The CKP and CMP signals work together to help the PCM manage ignition timing and fuel delivery to start and keep the engine running.
You'll find the CKP sensor mounted on the transmission bellhousing —right where it meets the engine block, on the rear side closest to the firewall.
Should I Just Replace The CKP Sensor Without Testing It?
Honestly, most folks just go ahead and replace the CKP sensor when a CKP sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) shows up. No testing, no fuss, just swap it out.
And to be honest with you, that actually solves the issue most of the time. You throw in a new sensor, clear the code, and boom —the minivan's back in action like nothing happened.
This strategy makes total sense for two reasons:
- The CKP sensor's fairly cheap, and replacing it doesn't take the entire day.
- The sensor's tucked away in a tight spot, and let me tell you, trying to squeeze in your test leads isn't exactly fun. That's why plenty of folks just go ahead and replace it instead of wrestling with the test setup.
If that's the route you're thinking about, check the link below —you'll find a solid deal and save yourself some cash. Also, make sure you check this out:
But if you'd rather be sure the sensor's actually bad before dropping money on a new one —no problem. This tutorial will walk you through the step-by-step tests so you can confirm it yourself.
Where To Buy The CKP Sensor And Save
The following links will help you comparison shop for the crankshaft position sensor:
Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector Pinout

2004-2007 CKP Sensor Circuits | ||
---|---|---|
Terminal | Wire | Description |
1 | Pink with yellow stripe (PNK/YEL) | 5 Volts DC |
2 | Dark blue with dark green stripe (DK BLU/DK GRN) | Ground |
3 | Brown with light blue stripe (BRN/LT BLU) | CKP Sensor Signal |
TEST 1: Testing The CKP Signal With A Multimeter

We're gonna start things off by checking whether the crankshaft position sensor is actually sending out its ON/OFF voltage signal —and we'll be doing that by manually turning the engine, not using the starter motor.
Here's what that signal should look like on your multimeter:
- ON: Voltage jumps up to 5 Volts.
- OFF: Drops down close to 0 Volts.
This pulse signal gets delivered to the PCM through the brown with light blue stripe (BRN/LT BLU) wire —and that's the one we'll be probing during this test.
If you don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours? This is the one I use and recommend: Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (at: amazon.com).
NOTE: Don't use the starter to crank the engine —it turns too fast for your multimeter to catch the ON/OFF voltage changes. Instead, use a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley to manually rotate the engine slowly and get an accurate reading.
CAUTION: You might need to raise the front of your minivan to access the crankshaft pulley bolt. If so, don't forget to use jack stands —never trust just the jack alone.
IMPORTANT: Keep the CKP sensor plugged into its harness during this test. To read the signal, you'll need to back-probe the connector or use a wire-piercing probe on the signal wire. If you need one, here's a good example: Wire Piercing Probe.
Follow these steps to check for CKP signal:
- 1
Unplug the ignition coil pack.
NOTE: This step keeps the engine from accidentally firing up while you work. - 2
Set your multimeter to read DC voltage.
- 3
Attach the black lead to the battery's negative (-) post.
- 4
Connect the red lead to the CKP signal wire (BRN/LT BLU) using either a back-probe or a wire-piercing probe.
NOTE: The CKP sensor must stay connected to the harness while you're testing. - 5
Turn the key to the ON position (engine OFF).
- 6
Use your ratchet to slowly turn the crankshaft pulley by hand.
NOTE: Don't use the starter —you'll miss the signal entirely.
IMPORTANT: Make sure to complete at least one full revolution of the crankshaft so the sensor passes by all the flywheel slots. - 7
Watch for the voltage to switch between 5V and 0V.
A reading between 0.3 and 0.5V counts as 0 Volts.
NOTE: You should see the voltage switch 12 times from 5V to 0V as the crankshaft makes one full rotation.
Here's how to make sense of what you see:
CASE 1: You see a clear ON/OFF signal. Perfect —that means the CKP sensor is functioning and sending a valid signal to the PCM.
It also confirms that power and Ground are getting to the sensor from the PCM. No need for further testing —you're good to go.
CASE 2: No signal detected. Double-check your probe connections and try again.
If there's still no ON/OFF pulse showing on the multimeter, continue to: TEST 2: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts.