How To Test The CKP Sensor -P0320, P0335, P0339 (2003-2007 2.4L Chrysler And Dodge Minivan)

TEST 2: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts

If your last test didn't show the expected ON/OFF voltage from the crankshaft position sensor, the next thing to check is whether it's even getting the 5 Volt power supply it needs from the PCM.

This 5V feed comes in through the brown with pink stripe (BRN/PNK) wire on the sensor's 3-pin connector.

In the wiring diagram, this corresponds to pin #1 —so that's where you'll place your multimeter probe.

Here's how to run the power check:

1. 1

   Disconnect the CKP sensor from its connector —you'll be probing the wiring harness side.

2. 2

   Attach your black multimeter lead to the negative (-) battery post.

3. 3

   Switch the ignition key to the ON position. Don't start the engine —just key ON, engine OFF.

4. 4

   Put your multimeter in DC Volts mode.

5. 5

   Touch the red lead to pin #1 on the connector (this is the BRN/PNK wire).
   
   TIP: Double-check that you're probing the correct terminal to avoid false readings.

6. 6

   A proper reading should fall between 4.5 and 5 Volts.

Here's how to interpret your results:

CASE 1: You're getting 4.5 to 5 Volts. Great —this confirms the PCM is delivering power to the crank sensor like it should.

Your next step is to verify that it's also supplying a proper Ground connection. Head over to TEST 3: Confirming CKP Sensor Ground.

CASE 2: You get 0 Volts. Recheck your setup and make sure you're on the right pin.

If the voltage still reads zero, there may be an open-circuit or break in the BRN/PNK wire between the PCM and the sensor. That break will need to be found and repaired before the CKP sensor can function correctly.

TEST 3: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Ground

At this point, you've already confirmed two things:

• TEST 1: The crank sensor isn't sending out a switching ON/OFF signal.
• TEST 2: The PCM is supplying it with the expected 5 Volts.

Now it's time to make sure the sensor also has a good Ground connection —this comes through the dark blue with dark green stripe (DK BLU/DK GRN) wire, located at terminal #2 on the connector.

IMPORTANT: This Ground is provided directly by the PCM. Never apply power to this wire —doing so will fry the PCM in an instant. Instead, we'll do a simple and safe voltage drop test using your multimeter.

Here's how to confirm the sensor's Ground path is intact:

1. 1

   Unplug the crank sensor from its connector so you can access the terminals.

2. 2

   Hook up the red multimeter lead to the battery's positive (+) post.

3. 3

   Turn the key to the ON position —engine off.

4. 4

   Set your meter to DC Volts mode.

5. 5

   Touch the black lead to terminal #2 on the connector —that's the DK BLU/DK GRN wire.
   
   TIP: Be sure you're on the correct terminal to avoid chasing the wrong wire.

6. 6

   You should see a voltage reading between 10 and 12 Volts.

Here's what your results mean:

CASE 1: Voltage shows 10 to 12 Volts. That's exactly what we want —it confirms the Ground circuit is good, and the PCM is doing its job.

So if you've confirmed power and Ground (TEST 2) and there's no signal coming from the sensor (TEST 1), then the CKP sensor itself has failed and needs to be replaced.

Since the PCM isn’t seeing a crank signal from the CKP sensor, replacing the sensor will clear the following codes if you got them: P0320, P0335, or P0339.

CASE 2: No voltage displayed. Double-check your test leads and meter settings —then retest.

If the reading still shows 0 Volts, the Ground wire (DK BLU/DK GRN) may be open or damaged somewhere between the PCM and the sensor connector. That wire needs to be traced and repaired before the sensor can work correctly.

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