If the MAP sensor fails on your 1997–2001 2.2L Toyota Camry, you're likely to see one of these codes stored in the vehicle's memory: P0106, P0107, or P0108.
The good news is that testing the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor on your Camry is a pretty straightforward process and only requires a multimeter.
With your test results, you'll be able to confidently determine if the MAP sensor is bad or if it's working just fine.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Bad MAP Sensor.
- Where To Buy The MAP Sensor And Save.
- TEST 1: Verifying The MAP Sensor Signal With A Multimeter.
- TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts.
- TEST 3: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
- The MAP Sensor Code Won't Go Away.
- More 2.2L Toyota Camry Tutorials.
NOTE: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 2.2L Toyota Camry: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001.
Symptoms Of A Bad MAP Sensor
Your 2.2L Toyota Camry uses a speed density system to inject fuel into the cylinders. Simply put, this means the fuel injection computer relies on several key inputs to calculate how much air the engine is taking in:
- Engine RPM, supplied by the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
- Intake air temperature, provided by the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
- Intake manifold pressure, measured by the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
Because the MAP sensor plays such a crucial role in this system, its failure will cause a very noticeable drop in the engine's performance.
Here are some of the symptoms your 2.2L Toyota Camry may show when the MAP sensor is bad:
- Check engine light: The check engine light will turn on, and a MAP diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored in the computer's memory.
- Diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs): If your Camry is OBD II equipped, you'll see one of the following trouble codes:
- P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem.
- P0107: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Input.
- P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Input.
- Engine no-start issues: The engine may not start at all or take a long time cranking before it finally does.
- Black smoke and poor gas mileage: You'll notice black smoke from the tailpipe, along with significantly reduced fuel efficiency.
- Rough idle and power loss: The engine will idle roughly and lack power when you press the accelerator.
MAP Sensor Circuit Descriptions
| Camry MAP Sensor Pinout | ||
|---|---|---|
| Pin | Wire Color | Description |
| 1 | Yellow (YEL) | 5 Volts |
| 2 | Black with yellow stripe (BLK/YEL) | MAP Signal |
| 3 | Brown (BRN) | Sensor Ground |
To accurately diagnose the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, it's important to understand how it works.
The MAP sensor generates a voltage signal that changes in response to the vacuum (pressure) inside the intake manifold. This signal allows the fuel injection computer to monitor engine load and adjust fuel delivery accordingly.
- When the engine is idling or under light load, the vacuum in the intake manifold is high, and the MAP sensor typically produces a low voltage signal, usually around 0.5 to 1.5 Volts DC.
- As engine load increases —like when you press the accelerator pedal— the vacuum decreases, and the MAP sensor's voltage signal increases. At wide-open throttle (low vacuum), the voltage can reach around 4.5 to 5 Volts DC.
If the MAP sensor fails, one of the most common issues is that the voltage signal remains "stuck" at a single value, regardless of changes in engine vacuum.
This means the MAP sensor isn't accurately reporting intake manifold pressure to the computer, which leads to poor engine performance, increased emissions, and diagnostic trouble codes (like P0106, P0107, or P0108).
Where To Buy The MAP Sensor And Save
You can find the MAP sensor in just about any auto parts store, but I think you'll find the better price online. The following MAP sensors are pretty good deals:
Not sure if the MAP sensors in the links above fit your Toyota Camry? Don't worry, once you get to the site they will ask you the specifics of your vehicle and make sure it fits. If it doesn't fit they will find you the right one.
TEST 1: Verifying The MAP Sensor Signal With A Multimeter
This first test kicks things off by checking if the MAP sensor is producing a signal. Based on your results, you'll either move on to the next test or stop here.
The test instructions suggest using a vacuum pump. If you're in the U.S. And don't own one, you can rent one for free at stores like AutoZone or O'Reilly Auto Parts.
If that's not an option, you can improvise by using a vacuum hose attached to the MAP sensor's inlet and applying suction with your mouth. (Yes, the good old lungs method!)
NOTE: The MAP sensor must stay connected to its electrical connector for this test to work. You'll need to use a back probe to access the connector or a wire-piercing probe to test the wire. You can see an example of this tool here (and where to buy it): Wire Piercing Probe.
OK, this is what you need to do:
- 1
Disconnect the MAP sensor from its vacuum hose.
- 2
Connect your vacuum pump to the MAP sensor's vacuum inlet.
- 3
Select Volts DC on your trusty multimeter.
- 4
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the wire that connects to the terminal labeled with number 2 (in photo above) with the appropriate tool.
IMPORTANT: The MAP sensor must remain connected to its 3-wire connector. - 5
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 6
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
This supplies the MAP with power and Ground. - 7
Your multimeter should register 4.7 Volts DC at this point.
- 8
Apply vacuum to the MAP sensor with the vacuum pump (or your mouth).
- 9
The voltage reading on the multimeter should decrease.
- 10
Release the vacuum you applied to the MAP sensor.
- 11
The voltage reading on the multimeter should increase back to the voltage value you observed in step 7.
OK, let's take a look at what your vacuum pump test results mean:
CASE 1: The voltage increased and decreased smoothly and without gaps. This is the correct and expected test result.
This tells you that the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is functioning properly and is not the cause of the MAP sensor code or issue on your 2.2L Toyota Camry. No further testing is needed.
Now, if your vehicle still has the MAP sensor code lighting up the check engine on your instrument cluster, take a look at the section: The MAP Sensor Code Won't Go Away for more info.
CASE 2: The voltage stayed stuck in one value. This result points to a bad MAP sensor.
To make sure the MAP sensor is bad, make sure that it's getting 5 Volts and Ground. For the first test of these two, go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts
CASE 3: Your multimeter registered 0 Volts. This usually means that the MAP sensor is fried.
But further testing is needed to be absolutely sure, I suggest confirming that the MAP sensor has power and Ground. If both (power and Ground) are present, the MAP is bad. Go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting 5 Volts.