How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005, 2006, 2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

Testing the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor, to see if it's good or bad, on the 2005–2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord isn't difficult and I'll show you how in this tutorial —using only a multimeter and a vacuum pump.

You'll learn how to read the MAP signal and verify that 5 Volt power and Ground are present so you can be sure the sensor's toast before replacing it.

No matter if you're a weekend DIYer or a seasoned tech, this tutorial makes diagnosing a faulty MAP sensor —and fixing those P0107 or P0108 codes— quick and easy.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

  • 3.0L V6 Honda Accord: 2005, 2006, 2007.

RELATED MAP SENSOR TESTS:

Symptoms Of A Bad MAP Sensor

Your 2005–2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord doesn't use a MAF sensor to calculate the amount of air entering the engine. Instead, it uses a speed-density system —which means the MAP sensor plays a major role, along with RPM and intake temp data to help the PCM calculate how much fuel to spray into each cylinder.

When the MAP sensor fails, it'll usually trigger one of these two codes:

  • P0107 –MAP Sensor Voltage Too Low.
  • P0108 –MAP Sensor Voltage Too High.

If you want to learn more about these two codes, I've written detailed walk-throughs for both of them —you'll find 'em right here:

Other tell-tale signs of MAP sensor trouble include:

  • Hesitation when stepping on the gas.
  • Rough or unstable engine idle RPMs.
  • Noticeable drop in MPG.
  • Extended engine cranking —you've got to crank the engine longer than usual before it starts.
  • Black smoke coming from the exhaust pipe.
  • Loss of acceleration —engine feels flat.

Of course, these symptoms can overlap with other problems —a failing fuel pump or low engine compression. That's why it's important to confirm the MAP sensor is the culprit before replacing it.

In the next section, I'll walk you through whether it's worth replacing it outright —or if it makes more sense to test it first.

Replace The MAP Sensor —Or Test It First?

Replacing the MAP sensor without testing it, is probably the most popular diagnostic strategy out there (yep, even shops do it too).

And there's nothing wrong with this approach, since in most cases, replacing the MAP sensor resolves the P0107 or P0108 code lighting up the check engine light.

Another appealing reason for this strategy is that the MAP sensor sits right up top the throttle body and is easy to get to, and swapping it takes less than 5 minutes. If you're in a hurry, don't have the tools, or just don't want to overthink it —replacing it first is perfectly valid.

If that's your plan, here are two MAP sensors I recommend —they've proven reliable and are from known automotive brand manufacturers I use and trust:

Using those links helps keep this site online. It won't cost you more —but it makes a difference behind the scenes. Thanks for your support!

Now if you're the kind who likes to check before replacing anything, then you've come to the right place. The MAP sensor test on this Honda is quick and painless. All you need is a multimeter and a small vacuum pump.

Let's dive into the first check: TEST 1: Checking The MAP Sensor Signal.

Where To Buy The MAP Sensor And Save

When you're ready to replace the MAP sensor, the links below can help you compare options from known and trusted automotive brands I've used myself:

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Buying through these links helps support this site at no extra cost to you. I truly appreciate it!

Not sure if the MAP sensor fits your particular vehicle? Don't worry, once you get to the site they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your particular vehicle. If it doesn't fit, they'll find you the right MAP sensor.

TEST 1: Checking The MAP Sensor Signal

Checking The MAP Sensor Signal. How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005, 2006, 2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

This first test is all about one thing: does the MAP sensor voltage shift as you apply and release vacuum to it?

In other words, when it gets vacuum, its signal output voltage should decrease smoothly —not stay stuck in one value.

If it doesn't respond the way it should, then the PCM is being fed bad info, and that's what's behind that P0107 or P0108 code lighting up the check engine light on your dash.

To check the MAP voltage output signal, you'll be testing the green with red stripe (GRN/RED) wire.

From there, just apply vacuum using a handheld pump (or your mouth) —watch the voltage change, and you'll know if the sensor's doing its job.

If you don't have a multimeter or a vacuum pump, here are the ones I recommend:

Buying through those links helps support this content —no extra cost to you, and it keeps these tutorials free and available. Thank you!

HACK: No vacuum pump handy? A clean vacuum hose and your mouth can get the job done just fine for this test.

NOTE: The MAP sensor must remain connected to its 3-wire connected to check its signal voltage. To tap into the GRN/RED wire, you'll need to use either a back probe on the connector or a wire piercing probe on the wire. You can see an example of this tool (and where to buy it) here: Wire Piercing Probe.

Let's get this show on the road:

  1. 1

    Unbolt and remove the MAP sensor from the throttle body.

  2. 2

    Connect your vacuum pump to the sensor's vacuum inlet port.

    NOTE: Make sure it stays plugged into its 3-wire connector.

  3. 3

    Put your multimeter in DC voltage mode and set it to the 20V range.

  4. 4

    Ground the black multimeter test lead to the battery's negative (-) terminal.

  5. 5

    Connect the red multimeter lead to the GRN/RED signal wire.

    NOTE: Either back-probe the connector or use a piercing tool to tap into the wire.

  6. 6

    Switch the key to ON —don't start the engine.

  7. 7

    You should see a voltage reading in the 3.8 to 4.5 Volt range —that's your baseline, no vacuum yet.

  8. 8

    Start applying vacuum with your vacuum pump or apply vacuum by mouth if needed.

  9. 9

    Watch the voltage drop as vacuum builds. Target is around 1.1 Volts at full vacuum.

  10. 10

    Release the vacuum you just applied to the sensor.

  11. 11

    Voltage should return to the original level —somewhere near 3.8–4.5 Volts.

  12. 12

    Repeat a few cycles —the voltage should decrease/increase smoothly, every time.

Let's take a closer look at what your test results are telling us:

CASE 1: You saw the voltage drop smoothly when vacuum was applied —and rise again when released. That's exactly what you want. It means the MAP sensor is healthy and tracking vacuum just like the PCM needs it to.

If you're still staring at a P0107 or P0108 on the scan tool, the problem probably lies elsewhere. This article dives into what else might be tripping that code:

CASE 2: The voltage never changed —no matter how much vacuum you applied, the numbers didn't move. That's a strong sign the sensor's bad.

But we still need to confirm it's actually getting power. For this test, go to: TEST 2: Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power.

CASE 3: You got a flat 0 Volt reading from the signal wire. That usually points to one of two things: either the sensor's completely shot, or it's not receiving the power and Ground it needs to operate.

Next up, we'll test the 5V reference and Ground side to see what's missing. Start here: TEST 2: Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power.

TEST 2: Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power

Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power. How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005, 2006, 2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

So your MAP sensor failed the vacuum signal test —but before we blame the sensor itself, let's make sure it's getting power. If the 5 Volt reference is missing, the sensor can't function no matter how new it is.

The PCM provides this 5 Volt feed, and on your 2005–2007 Honda Accord, it comes through the YEL/RED wire at the MAP sensor connector.

Here's how to check it:

  1. 1

    Unplug the MAP sensor so you can access the connector's female terminals.

  2. 2

    Set your multimeter to 20V DC mode.

  3. 3

    Turn the ignition to ON —but don't start the engine.

  4. 4

    Connect your black test lead to the battery's negative (-) post.

  5. 5

    Touch the red multimeter lead to the YEL/RED wire's female terminal and take your reading.

  6. 6

    You should see between 4.5 and 5 Volts on the meter.

Let's break down what your test result means:

CASE 1: You see 4.5 to 5 Volts. Good news —that means the PCM is sending the sensor its 5V supply as expected.

Your next move is to confirm the Ground circuit is good. On this model, that's the YEL/RED wire. Head over to: TEST 3: Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground.

CASE 2: You get zero Volts at the YEL/RED wire. First, double-check your probe setup and repeat the test.

Still nothing? Then the most likely cause is an open-circuit problem in the YEL/RED wire.

Your next step is to test the continuity of the YEL/RED wire between the MAP sensor connector and the PCM and resolve any issue with the wire. Once that 5 Volt power supply is restored, the MAP sensor will come back online.

TEST 3: Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground

Confirming The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground. How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005, 2006, 2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

Up to this point, you've confirmed:

  • The MAP signal voltage doesn't react when vacuum is applied to the sensor (TEST 1).
  • The MAP sensor has 5 Volts (TEST 2).

Now let's check that the sensor's getting Ground from the PCM. Without it, the circuit's incomplete and the sensor can't output anything usable.

On your 2005–2007 Accord, the Ground signal comes in through the GRN/WHT (green with white stripe) wire.

CAUTION: Don't apply direct battery voltage to this wire or you're gonna deep-fry the PCM. We're gonna do a simple and safe multimeter voltage check to confirm the presence of Ground in the GRN/WHT wire.

Here's the step-by-step to test it:

  1. 1

    Leave the MAP sensor unplugged.

  2. 2

    Set your multimeter to Volts DC (20V range).

  3. 3

    Switch the ignition to ON, but don't start the engine.

  4. 4

    Connect the red multimeter lead to the battery's positive (+) terminal.

  5. 5

    Use the black multimeter test lead to probe the GRN/WHT wire's female terminal at the MAP connector.

  6. 6

    You should see 10–12 Volts if Ground is present and working.

Now, let's break that down:

CASE 1: You see 10–12 Volts. Awesome. The PCM is grounding the circuit properly —the sensor's just not responding, which means it's most likely failed internally.

  • No signal response = bad MAP output (TEST 1).
  • Sensor's getting 5 Volts (TEST 2).
  • Sensor has solid Ground (TEST 3).

Conclusion? Time to replace the sensor.

Here are two MAP sensors I recommend for your Accord. These are from known automotive brands I trust, fit right, and hold up well:

Every purchase through these links helps keep the content flowing —thanks for helping support the site!

CASE 2: No voltage reading? That means Ground's missing and without it, the MAP sensor won't function.

The most likely cause of this missing Ground is an open-circuit issue with the GRN/WHT wire.

Your next step is to test the continuity of the GRN/WHT wire between the MAP sensor connector and the PCM and resolve any issue with the wire. Once Ground is restored, the MAP sensor will come back online.

More 3.0L V6 Honda Accord Diagnostic Tutorials

Whether you're chasing down a check engine light or just want to understand your Accord a little better, this index is a great place to start. It's full of real-world how-to guides written with both DIYers and experienced techs in mind.

Here's a quick peek at some of the step-by-step tutorials you'll find there:

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