How To Test The MAP Sensor (2000-2002 3.0L V6 Honda Accord)

This guide will walk you through how to test the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor step-by-step on the 2000–2002 3.0L V6 Honda Accord —using a simple multimeter and a vacuum pump to check if the sensor's actually doing its job.

I'll show you how to test the MAP signal and confirm the sensor is getting supplied with 5 Volts (power) and Ground —so you'll know for sure if it's bad before replacing it.

So whether you're a DIYer or a pro wrencher, this tutorial will easily help you diagnose a bad MAP sensor that's triggering codes P0107 or P0108.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 3.0L V6 Honda Accord: 1998, 1999.

RELATED MAP SENSOR TESTS:

• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1998-1999 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (2003-2004 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (2005-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).

Symptoms Of A Bad MAP Sensor

The engine management system on the 2000–2002 3.0L V6 Honda Accord doesn't use a mass air flow (MAF) sensor. Instead, it runs on a speed-density system that depends heavily on the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor to deliver the right amount of fuel to the engine.

When that MAP sensor begins sending the PCM incorrect readings, the fuel injection gets thrown out of whack and engine performance takes a hit fast.

The first thing you'll notice is the check engine light and one of these two codes stored in the PCM's memory:

• P0107 –MAP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage.
• P0108 –MAP Sensor Circuit High Voltage.

If you're seeing either of those codes, and want to know what they really mean, these guides break them down in plain English:

• P0107 MAP Sensor Code Explained (1998–2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• P0108 MAP Sensor Code Explained (1998–2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).

Other things you might notice when the MAP sensor has failed include:

• Engine hesitates or stumbles when accelerating.
• Idle surges or drops suddenly.
• Bad gas mileage.
• Long crank time before starting.
• Exhaust blowing out black smoke.
• Overall weak performance —sluggish throttle response.

Of course, those symptoms can be caused by other problems too —like a failing fuel pump or low engine compression. That's why it's always a smart move to test the MAP sensor first (throwing parts at the problem is a fast way to drain your wallet).

In the next section, I'll walk you through why testing the sensor first might save you time, money, and a headache.

Should I Just Replace The MAP Sensor?

Most folks (even the pros), when their scan tool shows them a P0107 or P0108 code, just replace the MAP sensor and move on. And in many cases, this solves the problem and life goes on.

There's no shame in that. The sensor is right there in plain sight, it's not too pricey (depending on where you buy it), and you don't need a lift or any other expensive equipment to change it out.

So if time's tight, or if you don't feel like dragging out tools (or maybe you don't have them), replacing it seems like the logical move.

If this is your plan, here are two replacement MAP sensors from known automotive brands I've used myself —they fit like OEM, work great, and come from names I trust:

• Holstein 2MAP0044 MAP Sensor (Amazon affiliate link).
• Spectra Premium MP128 MAP Sensor (Amazon affiliate link).

Buying through these affiliate links helps support the site —and I truly appreciate it.

But if you're more of a "prove it before replacing it" kind of person, I've got you covered too. Testing the MAP sensor on this engine is super simple. You'll only need a digital multimeter —that's it.

Let's jump into the first test: TEST 1: Checking The MAP Sensor Signal.

Where To Buy The MAP Sensor And Save

When you're ready to replace the MAP sensor, the links below can help you compare options from known and trusted automotive brands I've used myself:

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Buying through these links helps support this site at no extra cost to you. Thank you!

Not sure if the MAP sensor fits your particular vehicle? Don't worry, once you get to the site they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your particular vehicle. If it doesn't fit, they'll find you the right MAP sensor.

TEST 1: Checking The MAP Sensor Signal

Most MAP sensors come with a built-in vacuum port fitting —so when you remove them, you can connect a handheld vacuum pump to it (via a vacuum hose) and apply vacuum.

But that's not the case on the 2000–2003 3.0L Honda Accord. Its MAP sensor doesn't have that protruding vacuum inlet fitting, so we can't apply vacuum directly. Instead, we'll test it while it's still mounted to the throttle body, using engine vacuum to do the job.

Our goal with this test is simple: does the MAP sensor's signal change when we start the engine and vacuum is applied to the sensor?

If the voltage stays flat, the sensor isn't feeding the PCM the right info —and bad data like that is exactly what triggers a P0107 or P0108 trouble code.

The wire we need to tap into (to read the MAP signal) is the red with green stripe (RED/GRN) one. Since the MAP sensor must remain connected to its 3-wire connector, you'll back probe the connector or pierce the wire with a wire-piercing probe.

If you don't already have a multimeter, this is the one I recommend —its solid, affordable, and I have one myself that I use all the time in the field:

• Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (Amazon affiliate link).

Buying from these links helps support this site —no extra cost to you, and it really helps me keep these write-ups going. Thank you!

You can see an example of a wire-piercing probe (and where to buy it) here: Wire Piercing Probe.

Here's how to run the MAP sensor voltage test, step by step:

1. 1

   Put your multimeter in Volts DC mode. The 20V range works great for this.

2. 2

   Connect the black multimeter lead to the battery's negative (-) terminal.

3. 3

   Connect the red multimeter test lead to the RED/GRN signal wire.
   
   The MAP sensor must remain connected to its 3-wire connector to read the MAP voltage output signal.
   
   NOTE: Use a back-probe at the connector or a wire-piercing tool on the wire itself.

4. 4

   Turn the key to the ON position —just one click before cranking. Don't start the engine.

5. 5

   You should see a voltage in the 3.8 to 4.5 Volts range.
   
   NOTE: This is with the engine off and thus no vacuum being applied to the sensor.

6. 6

   Start the engine and let it settle into idle —the engine is now applying vacuum to the MAP sensor.

7. 7

   The MAP signal voltage should drop to around 1.1 Volts with the engine running at idle speed RPM.

8. 8

   Turn the engine off.

9. 9

   The voltage should rise back up to where it started —somewhere around 3.8 to 4.5 Volts.

10. 10

    Do this cycle a few times to confirm the reading drops and climbs consistently every time.

Alright —let's break down what your multimeter just told you:

CASE 1: Voltage dropped with the engine running, and went right back up when you turned off the engine. That's the correct test result. It means the MAP sensor is alive and doing exactly what it's supposed to.

If that's what you saw, but the check engine light is still flashing a P0107 or P0108, then the issue's probably not the sensor. This next guide will help you keep chasing it down:

• MAP Sensor Code Won't Go Away (1998-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).

CASE 2: Voltage didn't change at all. This usually means you've got a dead MAP sensor on your hands.

But before you replace it, let's make sure it's getting power. Head to: TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power.

CASE 3: You saw 0 Volts on the signal wire and it never changed. That either means the sensor has completely failed or it's not getting the power or Ground it needs to even function.

Next step: check both the 5 Volt supply and the Ground circuit. Go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power.

TEST 2: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Power

If the MAP sensor didn't behave the way it should've during TEST 1, it might not be the sensor's fault at all —it could just be missing the power it needs to work.

The MAP sensor depends on a solid 5 Volt reference from the PCM. No power? No signal.

On your 2000–2002 Honda Accord, the 5 Volt supply comes in through the YEL/RED wire (yellow with red stripe) at the MAP sensor connector.

Here's how to check that with your multimeter:

1. 1

   Unplug the MAP sensor from its 3-wire connector.

2. 2

   Set your multimeter to DC Volts mode —20V range works best here.

3. 3

   Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but don't crank or start the engine.

4. 4

   Connect the black multimeter lead to the battery's negative (-) terminal.

5. 5

   Use the red multimeter lead to gently probe the YEL/RED wire's female terminal at the connector.

6. 6

   You should see a voltage reading between 4.5 and 5.0 Volts.

Here's how to interpret what you find:

CASE 1: You see 4.5 to 5 Volts at the terminal —perfect. The PCM is doing its job and sending that 5 Volt reference.

Your next move is to confirm the MAP sensor also has a solid Ground. Ground comes in on the GRN/WHT wire. Go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground.

CASE 2: You see zero Volts on the YEL/RED wire. First, double-check your leads. Still nothing? Then the 5 Volt reference is missing —either from a wiring issue or a PCM fault.

If that's the case, then the MAP sensor itself isn't the problem. You'll need to troubleshoot why the 5 Volt supply is missing and restore it to the circuit. Once that 5 Volt feed is back, the sensor will come back to life.

TEST 3: Making Sure The MAP Sensor Is Getting Ground

Alright —you've confirmed the MAP sensor is getting its 5 Volt feed. The last piece of the puzzle is Ground. Without a good Ground path, the sensor can't send a signal— plain and simple.

On your 2000–2002 Accord, the Ground for the MAP sensor runs through the GRN/WHT wire at the connector. This is a PCM-controlled Ground, so we've gotta test it safely.

WARNING: Do not apply direct battery voltage to this wire —you'll fry the PCM. We'll safely test for the presence of Ground in the GRN/WHT by doing a multimeter voltage check.

Here's how to test the Ground step by step:

1. 1

   Disconnect the MAP sensor from its connector.

2. 2

   Set your multimeter to DC Volts mode.

3. 3

   Turn the ignition switch to the ON position —no need to start the engine.

4. 4

   Touch the red multimeter lead to the battery's positive (+) post.

5. 5

   Gently probe the GRN/WHT wire's female terminal (at the connector) with the black multimeter test lead.

6. 6

   Your multimeter should read between 10 and 12 Volts.

Now let's make sense of what you saw:

CASE 1: You got 10 to 12 Volts. Excellent. That means the MAP sensor is getting Ground from the PCM just like it should.

Now that you've verified all three:

• TEST 1: Signal didn't respond to engine vacuum → bad output.
• TEST 2: Sensor's getting 5 Volts.
• TEST 3: Ground path is solid.

Put that together, and the MAP sensor's toast —internal failure. Time to replace it.

Here are two I recommend —good fit, from proven brands I trust and use:

• Holstein 2MAP0044 MAP Sensor (Amazon affiliate link).
• Spectra Premium MP128 MAP Sensor (Amazon affiliate link).

These affiliate links help keep this site running —at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support!

CASE 2: No voltage showed up on the meter? Then that Ground wire isn't completing the circuit. Could be a break, corrosion, or even a PCM pin issue.

Recheck your multimeter leads. Still nothing? Time to trace that Ground wire from the MAP connector back to the PCM and test continuity. Once Ground is restored, the MAP sensor will come back online.

More 3.0L V6 Honda Accord Diagnostic Tutorials

Whether you're chasing down a check engine light or just want to understand your Accord a little better, this index is a great place to start. It's full of real-world how-to guides written with both DIYers and experienced techs in mind.

• 3.0L V6 Honda Accord Index Of Articles.

Here's a quick peek at some of the step-by-step tutorials you'll find there:

• How To Troubleshoot A No Start (1998-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• How To Test For A Broken Timing Belt (1998-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• How To Test a Misfire Condition and Misfire Codes (3.0L V6 Honda Accord).
• How To Test Engine Compression (1998-2007 3.0L V6 Honda Accord).