How To Test The Alternator (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic)

TEST 2: Testing The Continuity Of The Bat (+) Circuit

All the electrical power the alternator produces —to charge the battery and power your Honda’s electrical systems— flows through a single 80 Amp fuse!

This fuse is Fuse #41 (80A) located in the under-hood fuse/relay box of your 1.5L Honda Civic.

If this fuse is blown, the alternator might still be working, but its output won’t reach the battery or any electrical accessory that needs a steady supply of voltage and amperage.

In this step, you’re going to check that this fuse is in good condition. We’ll do this by performing a simple continuity test on the cable that connects the alternator to the battery’s positive (+) post.

NOTE: This test is done with the engine OFF.

This is what you'll need to do:

1. 1

   Disconnect the battery negative (-) cable terminal from the battery negative post. This cable must remain disconnected throughout the entire test.
   
   IMPORTANT: Don't continue to the next step without first doing this.

2. 2

   Leave the positive (+) battery cable connected to the battery positive (+) post.

3. 3

   Set your multimeter to Ohms mode.

4. 4

   Connect your multimeter's red test lead on the Batt + stud on the back of the alternator. The arrow in the photo points to this stud.
   
   NOTE: Don't disconnect the battery cable from the rear of the alternator.

5. 5

   With the black multimeter test lead, probe the center of the battery positive (+) post.

6. 6

   You'll get one of two results:
   
   1.) If Fuse 41 (80A) is blown, your multimeter will indicate an open-circuit problem with a reading of OL (which means over limit).
   
   2.) If Fuse 41 is OK and not blown, your multimeter will register continuity with a reading of 0.5 Ohms or less.

OK, now that the testing part is done, let's take a look at what your results mean:

CASE 1: Your multimeter registered continuity. This is the correct and expected test result and it indicates that Fuse 41 is OK (not blown).

The last test to do also involves checking the condition of another fuse. Except that this is just a regular plastic blade type fuse found in the under-dash fuse/relay box. For this test, go to: TEST 3: Checking The Alternator Fuse.

CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 0.5 Ohms, it registered OL. This result tells you that the fuse is blown and this will keep the alternator from charging the battery.

Replace the fuse and retest. Replacing the fuse should solve your no charge condition. You'll have to investigate the reason this Inline Fusible Link or fuse blew, since they don't go bad for no particular reason.

TEST 3: Checking The Alternator Fuse

In this section, we're gonna check that the black with yellow stripe (BLK/YEL) wire of the alternator's 4-wire connector has 10 to 12 Volts with the key on but engine off (KOEO).

The BLK/YEL wire connects to the female terminal I've labeled with the letters "IG" in the illustration above.

The BLK/YEL wire gets power from a fuse located in the under-dash fuse and relay box inside your Civic.

Depending on the specific model year of your 1.5L Civic, these are its locations:

• 1992: Fuse #24 (15A) (under-dash fuse/relay box).
• 1993: Fuse #24 (15A) (under-dash fuse/relay box).
• 1994:
  • Fuse #12 (15A) without airbags (under-dash fuse/relay box).
  • Fuse #24 (15A) with airbags (SRS fuse box).
• 1995:
  • Fuse #12 (15A) without airbags (under-dash fuse/relay box).
  • Fuse #24 (15A) with airbags (SRS fuse box).

OK, let's get started:

1. 1

   Reconnect the battery to its battery negative (-) cable.

2. 2

   Locate the fuse #24 (or fuse #12) -depending on the model year of your particular Civic and whether it's equipped with airbags or not.

3. 3

   Remove the fuse and check that it's not blown.

4. 4

   If it is blown, replace it with a new one and repeat TEST 1.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The fuse is NOT blown. This is the correct and expected test result. You can conclude that the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced.

CASE 2: The fuse IS blown. Replace the fuse with another of the same amperage rating and start the car and check to see if the alternator is now charging the battery by repeating TEST 1.

More 1.5L Honda Civic Tutorials

You can find all of the 1.5L Honda articles here: 1.5L Honda Civic Index Of Articles.

Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:

• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test The Fuel Injectors (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test The Throttle Position Sensor (1992-1995 1.5L Honda Civic).
• How To Test The Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).