TEST 2: Checking Ground (Circuit C Wire)
So far, in TEST 1, you confirmed that the O2 sensor's heater element is getting power.
In this section, you're gonna' confirm that the oxygen sensor's heater element is getting a good Ground.
This Ground is provided directly by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) and you must take care not to short this wire to 12 Volts or you'll fry the PCM.
This is what you'll need to do:
- Disconnect the upstream oxygen (O2) sensor you're testing (if it isn't already from TEST 1).
- Locate the circuit C wire.
- You'll test the wire that is on the engine wiring harness connector side.
- This wire will be one of several colors, depending on the type of O2 sensor:
- Light Blue or Black w/ White Stripe (Bank 1 Sensor 1).
- Purple w/ White stripe or Light Green (Bank 2 Sensor 1.)
- Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode and:
- Connect the red multimeter test lead to battery (+).
- Connect the black lead to the C circuit wire of the engine wiring harness connector side.
- With the Key On Engine Off, this wire should have 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC. This test result tells yo that the oxygen sensor's heater element is getting Ground (for this particular oxygen sensor).
The next test, and the last one, is to check the resistance of the heater element inside the oxygen sensor itself. Depending on the result of this O2 heater element resistance test, you'll know if the O2 sensor is fried or not. For this test, go to: TEST 3: O2 Heater Resistance Test.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC. Re-check all of your connections and make sure you're testing the correct wire.
If your multimeter still does not indicate the 10 to 12 Volts DC, then the Black wire has an 'open-circuit' problem.
By an 'open', I mean that the wire is cut somewhere between it and the PCM connector or that the PCM is bad (although a bad PCM is rare).
Repairing this Ground issue will solve the P0135 and/or P0155 issue you're having with your 2003-2005 GM pickup, van, or SUV.
TEST 3: O2 Heater Resistance Test
Now that you have checked and confirmed that the oxygen sensor's heater element is getting both power and Ground, the next step is to check the resistance of the heater element itself with a multimeter.
This resistance test will tell you if the oxygen sensor's heater element is fried inside the O2 sensor itself or not.
Depending on the amount of access you have to the O2 sensor (on the vehicle), you can test the O2 sensor's heater element with the O2 sensor on or off the vehicle.
OK, this is what you need to do:
- Disconnect the oxygen sensor from the engine wiring harness connector (if it isn't already from the previous tests).
- NOTE: The O2 sensor must be disconnected from the vehicle's connector for this test!
- Locate the O2 sensor wires that correspond to:
- The circuit C.
- -AND-
- The circuit D.
- Both of these letters should be embossed on the O2 sensor's connector to aid you in further identifying the circuits you need to test.
- With your multimeter in Ohms mode, probe the terminals that correspond to the letters C and D of the O2 sensor connector.
- NOTE: Remember, you're testing the oxygen sensor itself.
- If all is OK, you should see about 5 to 16 Ω (Ohms).
- If the heater element is fried, your multimeter will show an open (usually indicated by the letters OL).
Let's take a look at your test results:
CASE 1: Your multimeter showed the indicated resistance. This tells you that you that the heater element within the oxygen sensor is OK.
CASE 2: Your multimeter showed an open circuit (OL). This confirms that the oxygen sensor is bad and needs to be replaced with a new one.
Depending on what oxygen sensor you're testing (either Bank 1 Sensor 1 or Bank 2 Sensor 1), replacing the oxygen sensor will solve the P0135 or P0155 diagnostic trouble code.
Here's why: You have verified that the O2 sensor's heater element is getting both power and Ground (in TEST 1 and TEST 2 respectively). In this test section, you have confirmed that the heater element is fried (since it shows an OL on your multimeter), therefore you can conclude with confidence that the O2 sensor is bad.
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!