TEST 2: Verifying The MAP Sensor Has Power
So far, in TEST 1, you have verified that the MAP sensor on your GM van (mini-van, car, pick up, SUV) is not creating a signal or the signal is erratic.
An so, in this MAP sensor test step, you're gonna' verify that the MAP sensor is getting power, since without power it won't work. This power come in the form of 5 Volts and the PCM (Powertrain Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer) is the one that provides this juice.
Alright, this is what you'll need to do:
- 1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 2
Disconnect the MAP sensor from its electrical connector.
- 3
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Gently probe the female terminal that connects to the wire labeled with the number 1 with the red multimeter test lead.
- 5
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) post.
- 6
Your multimeter should register 4.5 to 5 Volts DC.
OK, now that the testing part is done, let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 5 Volts. This is the correct result and it's starting to look like the MAP sensor is bad but you still need to check that the MAP sensor is getting Ground. For the Ground test, go to: TEST 3: Verifying The Ground Circuit.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 5 Volts. This results lets you know that the MAP sensor is not bad, since without these 5 Volts DC, the MAP sensor can not function.
Although it's beyond the scope of this article to troubleshoot the cause of these missing 5 Volts, you have now eliminated the MAP sensor as bad. Resolving the issue that is keeping these 5 Volts from being supplied will solve the MAP sensor issue on your 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L GM SUV, pick up, van, or mini-van.
TEST 3: Verifying The Ground Circuit
The next step (after verifying the MAP signal and power circuit) is to make sure that the MAP sensor on your GM van (mini-van, car, pick up, SUV) has a good path to Ground. So, in this test step, you're gonna' verify that the MAP sensor is getting Ground using your multimeter once again.
IMPORTANT: This circuit connects directly to the PCM. Be careful and don't short this wire to battery power (12 Volts), or you WILL FRY the PCM. The multimeter test I'm suggesting in the instructions below is a safe way to test for the presence of Ground in the wire.
Alright, this is what you'll need to do:
- 1
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 2
Disconnect the MAP sensor from its electrical connector.
- 3
Turn the key ON but don't crank or start the engine.
- 4
Gently probe the female terminal that connects to the wire labeled with the number 3 with the black multimeter test lead.
- 5
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery positive (+) post.
- 6
Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
OK, let's take a look at what your results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts. This is the normal result and it means that the MAP sensor your GM van (mini-van, car, pick up, SUV) is fried and needs to be replaced.
Here's why: In TEST 1 and 2, you verified that the MAP sensor is not producing the correct values (when you applied vacuum) and that it does have power. Since in this test step you have confirmed that the MAP sensor does have a solid path to Ground, these results, interpreted together, indicate that the MAP sensor is bad.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts. Double check your multimeter connections and repeat the test. If your multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the MAP is not fried and not the cause of the MAP diagnostic trouble code (DTC) issue.
Here's why: Without a good path to Ground, that the PCM provides internally, the MAP sensor will not work. With this test result, you have eliminated the MAP sensor as bad.
MAP Sensor Code Won't Go Away
So you've tested the MAP sensor and according to the test results, it's good. But the check engine light keeps coming back on even after you erased the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) from the computer's (PCM) memory. Well, here are a couple of suggestions that might inspire your next diagnostic move:
- The MAP sensor's O-rings, the ones located on the vacuum inlet nipple are missing or are too old and they're not sealing properly. Visually check the O-rings and replace if necessary.
- The engine has several cylinders with very low engine compression causing it to idle rough and thus producing low or erratic vacuum. For this I suggest a compression test.
- The MAP sensor is failing intermittently. Which means that it works fine most of the time, but every now and then it doesn't:
- I have found that the best way to test these intermittent problems is to slightly tap the MAP sensor with the handle of a screw-driver and see if this tapping screws up the voltage readings as I apply vacuum.
- The MAP sensor's connector is bad, usually the locking tab is broken and the connector has worked itself loose, causing an intermittent false connection.
- Your fuel pump is starting to go bad and is not sending enough fuel and/or fuel pressure up to the fuel injectors. I suggest a fuel pump test.
- There's a good chance that the PCM is fried and that it's setting a false MAP sensor code.
Related Test Articles
I've written several more tutorials that may be of interest to you. These are specific 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L GM van (mini-van, car, pick up, SUV) and you can find them in this index:
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:
- Coolant Leaking From Intake Gaskets (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- How To Diagnose A Hard To Find Misfire Case Study (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- Troubleshooting the fuel pump (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- How To Test The Engine Compression (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- How To Troubleshoot A No Start (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- Shift Solenoid A And B Tests (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L).
- How To Test A Misfire / No Spark-No Start Condition (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L 96-04) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!
