How To Test The PIP Sensor (1990-1995 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable)

By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
Created: 09 November 2025
Updated: 14 November 2025
Articl Id: 153

How To Test The PIP Sensor (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable)

I think most folks are surprised by how easy it is to test the ignition control module (ICM) to see if it's behind an engine no-start.

The best part is you don't need to remove it from the engine compartment to check it. In this tutorial, I'm going to show you step by step how to do it with some very basic tools —no scan tool or expensive equipment needed.

By the end, your test results will tell you whether the ICM's toast and needs to be replaced, or the issue lies somewhere else.

Contents of this tutorial:

Basic Operating Theory Of The PIP Sensor.
What Tools Do I Need To Test The PIP Sensor?
TEST 1: Making Sure The PIP Sensor Is Getting Power.
TEST 2: Making Sure The PIP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
TEST 3: Testing The PIP Signal With A Multimeter.
TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal With An LED Light.
More 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus Diagnostic Tutorials.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

3.8L V6 Ford Taurus: 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995.
3.8L V6 Mercury Sable: 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995.

IGNITION COIL AND IGNITION MODULE TESTS:

IGN SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS:

Basic Operating Theory Of The PIP Sensor

The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor, located inside the distributor, is a Hall-effect switch that creates an ON/OFF Volts DC signal every time a shutter blade passes through it.

This signal tells both the ignition control module (ICM) and the powertrain control module (PCM) the engine's position and speed.

The ignition module uses this signal to trigger the ignition coil, and once the engine is running, the PCM takes over spark timing through the SPOUT circuit.

The PIP sensor is powered by 12 Volts from the ignition system.
As each shutter blade passes, the PIP signal switches between near 0 Volts and near battery voltage.
During cranking, the ignition control module fires the coil at base timing using the PIP signal.
After start-up, the PCM adjusts spark timing electronically through the SPOUT signal.

What Tools Do I Need To Test The PIP Sensor?

To test the ignition system, you don't need any expensive diagnostic equipment, but you'll need a few basic tools, and these are:

12V automotive test light: A regular 12V incandescent test light will help us check the ignition coil's activation signal in TEST 2. If you don't have one, this is the one I recommend —you can see it here: Lisle 28400 Heavy Duty 12 Volt Test Light (Amazon affiliate link).
Multimeter: The multimeter will help us make sure the ignition coil's receiving battery power in TEST 4. If you don't have one, or if you're looking to upgrade, this is the one I use and recommend: Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (Amazon affiliate link).

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If my tutorials help you, using these links is an easy way to support the site at no extra cost to you. Thank you!

TEST 1: Making Sure The PIP Sensor Is Getting Power

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The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor gets power from the red with light green stripe (RED/LT GRN) wire of the distributor's engine wiring harness connector.

Depending on the specific year of your Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable, this connector will have either 5 wires (1990) or 7 wires (1991–1995).

Regardless of the number of wires, the RED/LT GRN wire corresponds to male terminal number 1 —see the connector pinouts above.

This battery power (10-12 Volts) is only available with the key in the RUN or START position. For our test, we're going to make sure terminal 1 is delivering battery voltage with the key in the RUN position and the engine OFF.

NOTE: This test is performed on the engine wiring harness distributor connector, which has round male terminals —not on the connector coming out of the distributor itself, which has round female terminals.

All right, let's get testing.

1
Disconnect the distributor from its 5-wire or 7-wire connector.
2
Place your multimeter Volts DC mode.
3
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) post.
4
Turn the key to the ON position but don't start the engine.
5
With the red multimeter test lead, probe male terminal 1 of the connector.

NOTE: Double-check that terminal 1 corresponds to the RED/LT GRN wire.
6
Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC.

Let's interpret your test result:

CASE 1: Terminal 1 is delivering 10 to 12 Volts to the PIP sensor. This result confirms the PIP sensor's getting the power it needs to function and generate its signal.

With this first test done, our next step is to make sure it's getting Ground. For this test, go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The PIP Sensor Is Getting Ground.

CASE 2: Terminal 1 is not delivering power to the PIP sensor. Without 10 to 12 Volts, the PIP sensor won't function —so this result rules out the sensor itself as the cause of the engine's no-start issue.

Your next step is to find out why battery voltage is missing from the circuit and restore it. Once the PIP sensor gets power, it'll function, generate its signal, and the engine should start.

TEST 2: Making Sure The PIP Sensor Is Getting Ground

Checking The Ignition Coil Activation Signal. How To Test The PIP Sensor (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable)

Now that you've checked the PIP sensor is getting power, we're going to make sure it's getting Ground —which is a chassis Ground supplied internally through the distributor.

We can easily verify that this Ground has a solid connection to the distributor by doing a simple voltage check with our multimeter in Volts DC mode.

We can expect one of two results:

PIP sensor is getting Ground: Your multimeter should show a voltage reading right near battery voltage (no more than 0.5 Volts lower).
PIP sensor isn't getting Ground: Your multimeter will show a voltage, but it won't be anywhere near battery voltage.

NOTE: This test is performed on the connector coming out of the distributor itself, which has female terminals. Regardless of the model year of your Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable, the distributor connector on that same model will still have 7 wires.

OK, let's begin:

1
Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
2
Measure the battery voltage directly across the battery posts with your multimeter.

This will be your baseline voltage reading, which we'll use for comparison in the following test steps.
3
Disconnect the distributor from its engine wiring harness connector.
4
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the center of the battery positive (+) post.
5
With the black multimeter test lead, probe female terminal 3 of the distributor connector.
6
You should see a voltage reading no less than 0.5 Volts of battery voltage.

NOTE: From my experience, when there's an issue with the PIP sensor not getting a proper chassis Ground —causing a PIP sensor performance problem— you'll typically see a multimeter reading of 10 Volts or less instead of full battery voltage.
7
Repeat the same test on terminals 2, 6, and 7.

Keep the red multimeter test lead touching the center of the battery positive (+) post, and move the black test lead to each of these terminals one at a time.

Your multimeter should report a value near battery voltage when probing each terminal.

Now, let's interpret your test result:

CASE 1: The multimeter reported battery voltage when probing terminals 3, 2, 6, and 7. This is the correct test result, and it lets us know the PIP sensor has a good chassis Ground connection to the battery negative (-) post.

For our next test, we're going to check the PIP signal itself. This can be done with either a multimeter or an LED light.

If you're after the most accurate way to test the PIP sensor, the multimeter test is the way to go (TEST 3) —but it does require turning the engine over by hand using a 1/2-inch ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley. The quickest way to check the PIP signal is with an LED light (TEST 4), which allows you to use the starter motor to crank the engine.

TEST 3: Testing The PIP Signal With A Multimeter.
TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal With An LED Light.

CASE 2: The multimeter reported a value much lower than battery voltage at the indicated terminals. This test result lets you know the PIP sensor doesn't have a solid path thru chassis Ground to the battery negative (-) cable.

This issue is usually caused by one of two things:

The cable connecting the battery's negative (-) post to the engine block is loose or its terminals are heavily corroded.
The small round metal terminal of the PIP sensor Ground wire that's bolted inside the distributor with a tiny screw is loose or corroded.

Your next step is to check the negative (-) battery cable where it connects to the engine block and chassis. Make sure those connection points are clean and free of corrosion or rust. Once you're done inspecting and cleaning —if you had to remove any buildup— repeat the test.

If the voltage reading is still noticeably lower than battery voltage, your next step is to remove the distributor and inspect the PIP sensor's Ground wire. Make sure it's securely attached with its screw and that the terminal is clean and free of corrosion.

TEST 3: Testing The PIP Signal With A Multimeter

Testing The PIP Signal With A Multimeter. How To Test The PIP Sensor (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable)

Now that we've confirmed the PIP sensor is getting power and has a good path to chassis Ground, our next step is to see if it's generating its ON/OFF voltage signal.

Here's how the PIP signal works:

ON: PIP signal voltage is above 8 Volts DC.
OFF: PIP signal voltage is below 2 Volts DC.

In this test section, we're going to check the signal with a multimeter in Volts DC mode. This specific test method requires manually turning the engine with a 1/2-inch ratchet and the appropriate socket on the crankshaft pulley —you cannot use the starter motor for this one.

If you'd rather use the starter motor to check the PIP signal, you can use an LED light instead. I explain how to do that in: TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal With An LED Light.

The fastest and easiest way to check for the PIP ON/OFF voltage signal is at the ignition control module's 6-wire connector. At the ICM connector, we're going to tap into the wire that connects to terminal 6.

Depending on the specific year of your 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, the wire that connects to terminal 6 will be one of the following colors:

1990–1991: Dark blue (DK BLU).
1992–1995: Gray with orange stripe (GRY/ORG).

IMPORTANT: You'll need to raise the front right side of your Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable, remove the tire and the splash shield, and access the crankshaft pulley. Be sure to place your vehicle securely on a jack stand —never trust the jack alone to keep the vehicle raised.

Alright, let's get started.

1
Raise the front right side of your vehicle and place it on a jack stand.

IMPORTANT: NEVER trust the jack alone to keep the vehicle raised. ALWAYS use jack stands.
2
Remove the front right tire and the water splash shield that is covering the crankshaft pulley.
3
Disconnect the ignition coil from its electrical connector.

NOTE: This is an important safety precaution —do not continue to the next step without doing this first.
4
Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
5
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
6
Disconnect the ICM from its 6-wire connector.
7
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the PIP signal wire, using the appropriate tool.

The PIP signal wire connects to terminal 6 and will be either a DK BLU wire (1990-1991) or a GRY/ORG wire (1992-1995).
8
Turn the ignition key to the ON position, but don't start or crank the engine.
9
Slowly rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand using a 1/2-inch ratchet and the appropriate socket.

NOTE: Rotate the pulley at least two full revolutions to ensure all of the tone wheel slots pass by the Hall effect sensor.
10
Watch your multimeter for voltage changes. Voltage should toggle between ON and OFF voltage states as you turn the crankshaft pulley.

ON: Voltage above 8 Volts DC.

OFF: Voltage below 2 Volts DC.

OK, let's interpret your test results.

CASE 1: Your multimeter reported the indicated ON/OFF voltage changes as you turned the engine by hand. This result lets you know the PIP sensor is generating the ON/OFF voltage signal the ignition control module (ICM) needs to start activating the ignition coil to spark.

Since this test confirms the PIP signal is OK, we can rule out the PIP sensor as the cause of the engine's no-start issue. If you haven't tested the ignition coil or ICM yet, that's your next diagnostic step. For those tests, head over to:

CASE 2: Your multimeter did not report the ON/OFF voltage changes indicated in the test instructions. Double-check that you're testing the correct wire on the ICM's 6-wire connector and repeat the test.

If you still don't see the ON/OFF voltage changes in the wire, then you can conclude the PIP sensor is toast and needs to be replaced —but only if you've confirmed all of the following:

You've confirmed the PIP sensor is getting power (TEST 1).
You've confirmed the PIP sensor has a solid connection to chassis Ground (TEST 2).
In this test section, you've confirmed the PIP sensor is not generating its ON/OFF voltage signal.

TEST 4: Testing The PIP Signal With An LED Light

Testing The PIP Signal With An LED Light. How To Test The PIP Sensor (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable)

The PIP sensor can be checked to see if it's creating its ON/OFF voltage pulse to the ICM using a simple 12-Volt automotive LED light.

In this test section, I'm going to show you how to connect it to the PIP signal wire at the ignition control module's 6-wire connector, since that's the easiest spot to hook up the LED light. If you don't have one, you can purchase one here: Oznium Flush Mount 12V LED Light (Amazon affiliate link).

One of the advantages of testing the PIP signal with an LED light is that we can crank the engine with the starter motor check for the presence of the PIP signal's ON/OFF voltage changes.

We can expect one of two results:

PIP signal is present: The LED light will flash ON and OFF, indicating the presence of the PIP signal.
PIP signal is not being generated: The LED light will not flash ON and OFF as the engine is cranked, confirming the missing PIP signal.

Before we get started, keep in mind that depending on the specific year of your Ford Taurus or Mercury Sable, the PIP signal wire at the ICM's 6-wire connector will be one of the following colors:

1990–1991: Dark blue (DK BLU).
1992–1995: Gray with orange stripe (GRY/ORG).

No matter the wire color, the PIP signal wire connects to terminal 6 of the ICM's 6-wire connector (see the illustration of the ICM above to identify the correct terminal).

CAUTION: You'll be working around a cranking engine. Keep your hands, tools, loose clothing, and test leads clear of moving engine parts such as belts and pulleys. Secure any long hair and avoid leaning over the engine while performing the test. Always stay alert and aware of your surroundings when working near moving components.

This is what you need to do:

1
Disconnect the ignition coil from its electrical connector.

NOTE: This is an important safety precaution —do not continue to the next step without doing this first.
2
Disconnect the ICM from its 6-wire connector.
3
Connect the red wire of the LED light to the battery positive (+) terminal.

NOTE: You'll need to use a jumper wire to have the red lead of the LED reach the battery terminal.
4
Connect the black wire of the LED to the PIP signal wire, using the appropriate tool.

The PIP signal wire connects to terminal 6 and will be either a DK BLU wire (1990-1991) or a GRY/ORG wire (1992-1995).
5
When all is set up, crank the engine.
6
The LED light should flash ON and OFF as the engine cranks if the PIP signal is being generated and sent to the ICM.

OK, let's interpret your test results.

CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF as you cranked the engine. This is the correct and expected test result, confirming that the PIP sensor inside the distributor is generating a PIP signal.

If you're troubleshooting an engine no-start problem, this result tells you the PIP sensor itself isn't the cause. You'll need to continue your troubleshooting to find out what's keeping the engine from starting. If you haven't tested the ignition coil or the ignition control module yet, that's your next diagnostic step. For those tests, head over to:

CASE 2: The LED light did not flash ON and OFF as you cranked the engine. First, make sure you're testing the correct wire on the ICM's 6-wire connector and repeat the test.

If the LED light still doesn't flash, this confirms the PIP sensor isn't generating its signal —and you can conclude it's defective and needs to be replaced, but only if you've confirmed the following:

In TEST 1, you confirmed the PIP sensor is getting battery voltage.
In TEST 2, you confirmed it has a solid path to chassis Ground.
And in this test section, you've confirmed it's not generating its ON/OFF voltage signal.

More 3.8L V6 Ford Taurus Diagnostic Tutorials

You can find a complete list of diagnostics tutorials for the 3.8L V6 Taurus and Mercury Sable in this index:

3.8L V6 Ford Taurus Index Of Articles.

Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:

If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!