How To Test The Fuel Pump (1996-1999 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan)

If you suspect the fuel pump is behind your minivan's no-start or performance issues, this tutorial will help you confirm it.

I'll walk you through how to test fuel pressure using a gauge, step by step. You'll also learn how to run a simple Starting Fluid Test to quickly tell if the engine's getting fuel or not.

Whether your minivan won't start at all or just runs poorly, these tests will help you find out if the fuel pump is the problem.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 3.3L V6 Chrysler Town & Country: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.
• 3.3L V6 Dodge Caravan: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.
• 3.3L V6 Dodge Grand Caravan: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.
• 3.3L V6 Plymouth Voyager: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.
• 3.3L V6 Plymouth Grand Voyager: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.

FUEL PUMP TEST TUTORIALS:

• How To Test The Fuel Pump (1992-1993 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
• How To Test The Fuel Pump (1994-1995 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
• How To Test The Fuel Pump (2000 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
• How To Test The Fuel Pump (2001-2007 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).

Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump

The fuel pump's job is simple —it moves fuel from the tank to the engine at the right pressure so the injectors can do their work. But when the pump starts to go bad, it throws a wrench in the whole system.

There are two ways a fuel pump can fail: completely or partially.

• A complete failure means the engine doesn't get any fuel at all. You'll hit the key and hear the starter spin, but the engine won't fire up —it's not getting what it needs to run.
• A partial failure is trickier. The pump might still be working, just not well enough under load. The engine might start, but then stall out —or it might run, but stumble or fall on its face when you hit the gas.

What does "under load" mean? It's any moment the engine needs extra fuel: pulling away from a stop, going up a hill, hauling a full load, or even just flipping on the A/C. When the pump's weak, it can't keep up —and that's when problems show up.

Here are some other warning signs that point to a failing fuel pump:

• Rough idle: The engine may stumble or feel like it's misfiring while idling.
• Long crank time: You have to hold the key longer than normal before the engine starts —if it starts at all.
• No power under acceleration: The van feels gutless when you try to speed up —especially on hills or with passengers.
• Backfire through the intake: A lean mixture can make the engine spit back through the intake when you hit the throttle.
• Check engine light with code P0171: This code means the engine's running too lean —usually because it's not getting enough fuel.

If you're seeing any of these symptoms, there's a good chance the fuel pump is the problem. Up next, I'll walk you through how to test it the right way.

Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Test Gauge

All of the fuel pump pressure test kits above have the fitting that will connect to your Dodge's Schrader valve.

Fuel Pressure Specifications

• KOEO = Key On Engine Off.
• KOER = Key On Engine Running.

TEST 1: Checking Fuel Pressure With A Fuel Pressure Gauge

If you've read the factory service manual, you've probably seen it say you need a scan tool to activate the fuel pump for pressure testing.

If you've got one of those scan tools (with bidirectional control), great, please go ahead and use it to manually activate the fuel pump with it.

But if you don't, no worries —you can still run the exact same test without it. I'm going to show you how to power the fuel pump manually by bypassing the fuel pump relay using a simple jumper wire. It's safe, effective, and gets you the result you need.

Just make sure your jumper wire isn't thicker than the relay's male terminals - you don't want to damage the fuse box connectors.

IMPORTANT: Use an appropriately sized jumper wire (no thicker than the relay pins) to prevent damage to your fuse box terminals.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Slide a shop towel under the Schrader valve before you connect anything.
   
   This'll catch any fuel that leaks when you hook up the gauge —simple, but it keeps things clean and safe.

2. 2

   Thread your fuel pressure gauge onto the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.

3. 3

   Find the fuel pump relay in the underhood fuse and relay box, then pull it out (see image 1 of 1 above).
   
   If you're not 100% sure which one it is, use the diagram under the fuse box cover to double-check.

4. 4

   Insert a jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87 of the relay socket.
   
   This will immediately power up the fuel pump directly.
   
   IMPORTANT: Only connect (jumper) these two terminals —don't bridge any others.

5. 5

   Listen for the pump to kick on and check for leaks at the gauge connection.
   
   If you see fuel seeping out, hand-tighten the gauge just a bit more until the leak stops.

6. 6

   Look at the fuel pressure gauge —you should see 49 ± 2 PSI.

This is what that fuel pressure test result means:

CASE 1: Fuel pressure is at 49 ± 2 PSI. That's exactly what you want. It means the fuel pump is working properly and delivering the right pressure.

If your engine won't start or is running poorly, the issue isn't with the pump —you'll need to look at ignition, sensors, or mechanical problems instead.

CASE 2: Pressure is low, significantly below spec. You're dealing with a weak or worn-out fuel pump that can't keep up with demand.

This low fuel pressure will affect engine performance when the engine is under load. It's time to replace the pump.

CASE 3: Pressure is 0 PSI. If you've got no fuel pressure at all, that usually means the pump isn't running —period.

But before you call it dead, you need to make sure terminal 30 at the fuel pump relay socket actually has power. It should have 12 Volts at all times —even with the key off.

If terminal 30 has no voltage, jump to: Checking The Fuel Pump Fuse And Power At Relay Terminal 30.

TEST 2: Using Starting Fluid To Diagnose A No-Start Condition

This is always my first move when I'm diagnosing an engine that won't start. It's quick, simple, and helps me figure out if I'm dealing with a fuel issue right out of the gate.

But before I ever spray starting fluid into the throttle body, I make sure every spark plug wire is actually firing. If there's no spark, this test won't tell you much —so I always confirm spark first.

Now, this test isn't a replacement for checking fuel pressure with a gauge —not even close. But it's a great starting point that helps me point the rest of the diagnostic in the right direction.

IMPORTANT: The accuracy of this test depends on all six spark plug wires firing spark. So before you reach for the carb cleaner or starting fluid, confirm that all six cylinders are getting spark.

Let's get testing:

1. 1

   Loosen the clamp holding the intake air duct to the throttle body and lift it off.
   
   You don't need to yank the whole duct out —just free it enough to access the throttle body opening. We'll put it back in a moment.

2. 2

   Give a short 1–2 second shot of starting fluid or carb cleaner straight into the throttle body.

3. 3

   Immediately slide the intake duct back onto the throttle body.
   
   No need to tighten it —just seat it well enough for the engine to pull air like normal.

4. 4

   Have your helper crank the engine as soon as the duct is back on.

5. 5

   Thee engine will do one of two things:
   
   1.) Start and run for a few seconds, then shut off.
   
   2.) Crank but never starting.

Here's what's going on:

CASE 1: Engine starts, then shuts off. This tells you spark and compression are good —the engine was able to run, but only on the starting fluid.

That means fuel isn't reaching the cylinders, and you're most likely looking at a fuel delivery problem. Your next move is to run a fuel pressure test: TEST 1: Checking Fuel Pressure With A Fuel Pressure Gauge.

CASE 2: Engine just cranks, no-start. If you don't get so much as a sputter, the issue isn't with the fuel system.

You're likely dealing with a mechanical issue like low compression or something else. Fuel isn't your problem in this case —it's time to dig deeper.

Checking The Fuel Pump Fuse And Power At Relay Terminal 30

If you ran the fuel pressure test and the gauge stayed at zero, that's a sign the fuel pump didn't run —but we still need to make sure the pump is getting power.

The power source for the pump comes straight from terminal 30 at the fuel pump relay socket. That terminal has constant 12V power —it stays hot whether the key is on or off. That power is supplied by:

• 1996–1997: Fuse #13 (20 amp) located in the underhood fuse and relay box (Power Distribution Center).
• 1998–1999: Fuse #16 (20 amp) located in the underhood fuse and relay box (Power Distribution Center).

Here's what to do: grab your multimeter or test light and check terminal 30 for power. If there's no voltage, pull the fuel pump fuse and take a look at it. If it's blown, replace it and rerun the fuel pressure test before doing anything else.

In my experience, when the fuel pump fuse that powers terminal 30 is blown, it's usually a sign that the fuel pump is wearing out. Even if the pump still runs, internal resistance builds up and causes it to draw too much current —more than the fuse can safely handle. That's Ohm's Law in action.

So if you replace the fuse and it blows again, even if the minivan starts and runs, the pump is done and needs to be replaced.

Good fuse? Voltage present at terminal 30? But still showing 0 PSI on the fuel pressure gauge? That tells you everything you need to know —the fuel pump isn't moving fuel, even though it's powered. Time to replace it.

More 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan Tutorials

You can find a complete list of 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth minivan tutorials in this index:

• 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan Index Of Articles.

Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:

• P0171 Diagnostics (1996-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
• P0420 Diagnostics -Catalytic Converter Tests (1996-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge And Plymouth Minivan).
• How To Check For Vacuum Leaks: Carb Cleaner Spray (1991-2010 3.9L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1991-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).