TEST 2: Making Sure That Terminal No. 5 Is Getting 12 Volts

The next terminal that we're gonna' test for power is the female terminal labeled with the number 5 in the photo above.

Female terminal no. 5 should have 10 to 12 Volts DC present with the key in the ON or START position.

The wire that connects to female terminal no. 5 is the yellow with green stripe (YEL/GRN) wire of the connector.

Terminal no. 5 gets power from fuse no. 13 of the under-dash fuse box.

Let's get testing:

1. 1

Disconnect the PGM-FI Main Relay from its electrical connector.

2. 2

Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.

3. 3

Connect the black multimeter test lead to a good Ground point.

I recommend that you use a jumper wire to connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.

4. 4

Gently probe the female terminal labeled with the number 5 (in the photo above) with the red multimeter test lead.

Female terminal no. 5 connects to the yellow with green stripe (YEL/GRN) wire of the connector.

5. 5

Turn the key to the ON position.

6. 6

Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.

Let's find out what your test result means:

CASE 1: 10 to 12 Volts are present. This is the correct and expected test result.

Now that you've confirmed that power is present, the next step is to make sure that terminal no. 6 is getting power too. Go to: TEST 3: Making Sure That Terminal No. 6 Is Getting 12 Volts.

CASE 2: 10 to 12 Volts ARE NOT present. Check that you're testing the correct female terminal of the connector.

If you still don't see 10 to 12 Volts, then your next step is to make sure that fuse no. 13 of the under-dash fuse box is not blown.

If the fuse is blown, replace and repeat the test.

TEST 3: Making Sure That Terminal No. 6 Is Getting 12 Volts

If you've reached this point, your PGM-FI Main Relay diagnostic has confirmed that:

1. Female terminal no. 1 is getting 10 to 12 Volts (TEST 1).
2. Female terminal no. 5 is getting 10 to 12 Volts (TEST 2).

For our third test we'll make sure that the blue with white stripe (BLU/WHT) wire has 10 to 12 Volts DC present with the key in the START position (while cranking the engine).

The BLU/WHT wire connects to female terminal labeled with number 6 in the photo above.

Terminal no. 6 gets power from fuse no. 31 of the under-dash fuse box.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

Disconnect the PGM-FI Main Relay from its electrical connector.

2. 2

Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.

3. 3

Connect the black multimeter test lead to a good Ground point.

I recommend that you use a jumper wire to connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.

4. 4

Gently probe the female terminal labeled with the number 6 (in the photo above) with the red multimeter test lead.

Female terminal no. 6 connects to the blue with white stripe (BLU/WHT) wire of the connector.

5. 5

Turn the key and crank the engine.

6. 6

Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.

Let's find out what your test result means:

CASE 1: 10 to 12 Volts are present. This is the correct and expected test result.

The next step is to make sure that terminal no. 2 is providing Ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay. Go to: TEST 4: Making Sure That Terminal No. 2 Is Getting Ground.

CASE 2: 10 to 12 Volts ARE NOT present. Check that you're testing the correct female terminal of the connector.

If you still don't see 10 to 12 Volts, then your next step is to make sure that fuse no. 31 of the under-dash fuse box is not blown.

If the fuse is blown, replace and repeat the test.

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Honda Vehicles:

• Civic 1.6L
• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
• Civic del Sol 1.6L
• 1996, 1997