How To Troubleshoot A No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)

Troubleshooting a no-start problem on your Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, or 5.8L pick up, van, or SUV can be easily done, with the right diagnostic information and troubleshooting strategy and in this article I'll provide you with some of both.

In this article, I'll shed some light on the most common problem areas and more importantly, where to find the info you need to get to the bottom of the problem.

You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar Un Arranca Pero No Prende (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L) (at: autotecnico-online.com).

Difference Between A No Start And A No Crank

Since a lot of folks confuse a no-crank condition with a no-start condition, I'll clear it up right now:

In a no-start condition (also known as a cranks but does not start) your vehicle's starter motor is cranking the engine but the engine is not starting. This is usually due to a lack of spark, or fuel, or engine compression and in this article I'm gonna' explain in some detail how to diagnose this type of condition/problem.

In a no-crank condition, the engine is not cranking when you turn the key to crank the engine. In other words, you turn the key and nothing happens since the engine won't turn over. This usually due to a bad starter motor or a bad starter motor solenoid.

Remember this article only deals with a no-start condition.

No Start Condition Basics

What's gonna' help you to 'hit the nail in the head' (when diagnosing a no-start problem) is that the issue will be in one of three distinct areas. It's either gonna' be in the ignition system, or the fuel system, or in the engine (mechanical).

Remember, the engine needs air, fuel and spark to start and when it's not starting, it's because one of these three components is missing from the mix.

Let's take a brief look at each area (system):

Ignition System

• The ignition system is the one responsible for creating and delivering spark. Without spark, the engine will crank but not start.
• The ignition system on your 4.9L, 5.0L, or 5.9L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
  • Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module.
  • Ignition coil
  • PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
  • Distributor cap and rotor.
  • Spark plug wires.
• The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a bad crank sensor.

Fuel System

• The fuel system is the one responsible with supplying the engine with fuel.
• The fuel system components that play a major part in starting your Ford vehicle are:
  • Fuel pump.
  • Fuel pump inertia switch.
  • Fuel pump relay.
  • Fuel injectors.
• All of these components can be tested to make sure they're bad before replacing them.

Engine Mechanical System

• The engine pistons and valves (and all the other related components like: timing chains, etc.) are the ones responsible for the induction of the fresh air the engine needs for the combustion process.
• Although rare, internal engine mechanical problems can and do cause no-start conditions.
• Possible internal engine problems are:
  • Blown head gasket.
  • Blown engine.

OK, now that you now what are some of the components involved in getting your Ford pick up (van, SUV) to start or not start, let's take a closer look at some testing info in the next subheading.

No Start 1: Checking For Spark

In my opinion (and in my experience), the most problematic area, when it comes to a cranks but does not start problem, is the ignition system.

So my recommendation is to test for spark right off the bat to see if spark is missing from the mix (air, fuel and spark).

The idea behind checking for spark is to see if all of the 8 engine cylinders are getting spark. Let's assume that you have already tested for spark and you observed one of the following spark test results:

CASE 1: Spark was present in all of the cylinders A spark result, if you're using a dedicated spark tester, tells you that:

• That the ignition control module is OK.
• That the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor is OK.
• That the ignition coil is doing dandy.
• You don't have to spend any time testing them or any money replacing them.

So, if you do have spark, the next step in your troubleshooting is to verify fuel pressure. Go to: No Start 2: Checking Fuel.

CASE 2: Spark was NOT present in all of the cylinders A number of things can cause this no spark result. So this what I would suggest:

• Test the ignition coil.
  • Check for spark directly on the ignition coil tower.
  • The distributor cap and rotor can go bad and not deliver the spark that the ignition coil is delivering to them. So testing for spark directly on the ignition coil is the best way to check this.
  • If you do get spark from the ignition coil's tower, then now you know that the distributor cap and rotor are fried and need to be replaced.
  • You can find the ignition coil test here: Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

• Test the ignition control module.
  • The ignition control module is the one that activates the ignition coil.
  • You can test the ignition control module on your Ford vehicle.
  • You can find the ignition control module test here:
    • Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
    • Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

• Test the PIP sensor.
  • The PIP signal is at the heart of the ignition system and it triggers the ignition control module to start activating the ignition coil.
  • The PIP signal is also used by the PCM to start injecting fuel into the cylinders.
  • You can test the PIP sensor on your Ford vehicle.
  • You can find the PIP sensor test here (the test is bundled in with how to test the ignition control module):
    • Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
    • Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

No Start 2: Checking For Fuel

Checking for fuel involves two separate tests. One is to check that the fuel pump is functioning and supplying the correct amount of pressure.

The other test is making sure that the PCM is activating the fuel injectors. This can easily be accomplished by using a Noid light to check for these ON/OFF activation pulses the PCM sends to the injectors.

Now, what makes testing the fuel pump pretty easy, is that your Ford pickup (van, SUV) has a Schrader valve located on the fuel injector rail to which you can attach a fuel pressure gauge. So, let's say you attached a fuel pressure gauge, you'll get one of two results:

For a step-by-step explanation on how to test the fuel pump, check out this tutorial: How To Test The Fuel Pump (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

NOTE: You can run down to your local AutoZone or O'Reilly Auto Parts and rent one or, you can buy one online. You can check out the following link: BETOOLL 0-140 PSI Fuel Pressure Tester (Amazon affiliate link).

CASE 1: Fuel pressure is at specification This result confirms that the fuel pump is OK and doing its part. Also, this test result confirms that the following components are OK too:

• Fuel pump fuse.
• Fuel pump relay.
• Fuel pump inertia switch.

And so, there's no need to spend time testing them or money replacing them.

CASE 2: Fuel pressure is not present. This usually means that the pump has failed, but not always. I would recommend testing/checking the following before condemning the fuel pump:

• The fuel pump inertia switch.
  • Checking to see if the inertia switch has tripped is very important, before condemning the fuel pump.
  • If the inertia switch has been tripped, the fuel pump will not power up. So checking it and resetting it (if it has tripped) will save you from replacing a good fuel pump.
• Fuel pump power circuit.
  • The other very important thing to do, before condemning the fuel pump is to make sure it's getting power.
  • This can be done by tapping into the fuel pump's power circuit with a multimeter.
  • Once you're tapped in, have a helper crank the engine while you observe your multimeter in Volts DC mode. If voltage is present (12 Volts), then you have confirmed that the fuel pump fuse, fuel pump relay and inertia switch are working perfectly.
  • Confirming power to the fuel pump (with a multimeter) also verifies that the fuel pump has failed and needs to be replaced.
  • If no voltage is present, as your helper cranks the engine, then the cause of no fuel condition is due to either a bad fuse, fuel pump relay, or inertia switch.

No Start 3: Checking Engine Mechanical Condition

One of the most overlooked areas, when testing a hard to diagnose no start, is the mechanical condition of your 4.9L, 5.0L or 5.8L Ford car, pick up, van or SUV.

Checking the engine mechanical condition means an engine compression test.

• When performing an engine compression test, what you're looking for is an average compression reading of less than 90 PSI across all or the majority of the engine cylinders.
• If you have one or just two readings that are under 90 PSI your Ford vehicle will still start and run, albeit with a misfire condition.
• I've written a 'How To Do A Compression Test' article that you may find useful. Although this article is geared towards finding a hard to diagnose misfire (and written for the 4.6L and 5.4L engines), if you have never done a compression test, this article will help you: How To Test Engine Compression (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

No Start Summary

So many different things can cause a no-start condition that troubleshooting it can turn your Ford vehicle into a money pit, if you don't have a basic diagnostic strategy. The key to saving yourself time and money is checking for the basics first. The basics are spark and fuel.

To check the basics, you need tools. There's just no way around it. One of the analogies that I've always enjoyed repeating, about doing a job without the right tools is like trying to eat a bowl of soup with a fork.

So besides knowing what to test, you need tools to do those tests. You don't have to spend an arm and a leg, since you can buy a lot of diagnostics tools that are tailored for the pocket-books of the serious do-it-yourself-er. Here are some of the basic tools you'll need:

• Fuel pressure gauge.
• Spark tester.
• Compression gauge.
• Multimeter.

Related Test Articles

You can find a complete list of tutorials here: Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Index Of Articles.

Here's a sample of tutorials you'll find in the index:

• Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
• How To Test Engine Compression (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
• Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP Sensor Test (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).
• Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
• Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module Test (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).