How To Test The Starter Motor (1997-2014 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150, E250, E350)

How To Test The Starter Motor (1997-2014 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150, E250, E350)

This is a simple guide that will help you to troubleshoot a bad starter motor on your 4.6L or 5.4L V8 equipped E-Series van. This is an on-car starter motor test that you'll be able to easily accomplish with some basic tools.

To see if this starter motor test tutorial covers your specific Ford vehicle, you can take a look at the list of applications on the box labeled 'Applies To:' on the column on the right and scroll with the prev and next links.

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

  • 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
  • 4.6L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
  • 5.4L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.
  • 5.4L V8 Ford E350: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014.

Wiring Diagrams: The following starting system wiring diagrams are available:

F-Series Pickups: You can find the starter motor test for 4.6L and 5.4L V8 F-Series pickups here:

Crown Vic And Grand Marquis: You can find the starter motor test for 4.6L Crown Vic and Grand Marquis here:

NOTE: This tutorial applies to several other Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 4.6L or 5.4L V8 engine. You can see the application list in the 'Applies To' box on the left if you're using a desktop or at the bottom of this page if you're using a hand-held mobile device.

Important Safety Precautions

TIP 1 -On-Car Test: The photos I'm using show the starter motor off of the engine only to facilitate the explanation of the test connections. Don't remove the starter motor from the vehicle to perform the test steps in this tutorial.

TIP 2 -Charge The Battery: It's critical that you make sure your battery is fully charged before you start any of the tests in this tutorial. Also, the battery cable terminals and battery posts must be clean and corrosion free.

TIP 3 -Clean Battery Posts: It's super important that the battery cable terminals and battery posts be clean and corrosion free.

TIP 4 -Use Jack Stands: Use jack stands to keep your Ford vehicle up in the air, don't trust the jack alone! Take all necessary safety precautions, like using jack stands to hold up the vehicle, wearing eye-protection (safety glasses), etc.

TIP 5 -Wear Safety Glasses: Wear safety glasses when working under the vehicle. Be alert and think safety all of the time.

TIP 6 -Remove The Key: Remove the key from the ignition switch. This will prevent the engine from starting, in case the starter motor is OK.

TIP 7 -Keep Hands And Tools Clear Of Moving Parts: Be aware of belts, pulleys, and fans that are spinning as the engine is cranked (to perform the starter motor test). Keep your hands and tools away from these moving parts to avoid injury.

Symptoms Of A Bad Starter Motor

The starter motor plays a critical role in starting your car. When you turn the key, it cranks the engine at high speed, enabling it to start and run.

When it fails, it'll usually cause one of two problems:

  • Engine No-Crank Problem: In this scenario, the starter fails entirely, and nothing but a replacement will get the engine cranking. This is the most common outcome of a bad starter motor.
  • Intermittent Engine No-Crank Problem: Here, the starter works most of time until it doesn't. This unpredictable behavior is pretty frustrating and the hardest to troubleshoot.

The key to diagnosing an intermittent starter motor issue lies in testing it during the no-crank event. Why? Because as long as starter that works, it'll pass whatever tests you perform on it.

By testing it specifically when the engine fails to crank, you're more likely to pinpoint the starter as the culprit behind the intermittent no-cranking problem.

What Tools Do I Need To Test The Starter Motor

The one tool that I recommend to use to test the starter motor is a remote starter switch (like the Actron CP7853). Here are the two things I like the most about this tool:

  • Remote Activation: The remote starter switch allows you to remotely activate the starter motor without having to access the ignition switch inside the vehicle. This can be particularly useful when working alone or when needing to test the starter motor from underneath the vehicle.
  • Diagnostic Testing: By connecting the remote starter switch to the starter motor's solenoid terminal and battery, you can bypass the ignition switch and directly engage the starter motor. This enables you to perform diagnostic tests on the starter motor to determine if it's functioning properly or if there are any issues with its operation.

You can buy it here:

TEST 1: Applying 12 Volts To The Starter Motor S Terminal

Applying 12 Volts To The Starter Motor S Terminal. How To Test The Starter Motor (1997-2014 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150, E250, E350)

In this first test, we're gonna apply 12 Volts from your van's battery directly to the starter motor's S terminal.

I recommend that you use a remote starter switch to apply these 12 Volts to the S terminal of the starter motor solenoid.

If your van's starter motor is good, it'll activate and crank the engine (once it gets these 12 Volts).

If the starter motor doesn't activate and crank the engine (after applying 12 Volts to the S terminal), more than likely you've got a bad starter motor on your hands (we would still need to do a voltage drop test on the battery (+) cable to make sure).

By the way, if you don't have remote starter switch and you're wondering what this tool looks like, you can follow this link and take a look at it: Actron CP7853 Remote Starter Switch For 6V And 12V Automotive Starting Systems (you can buy this bad boy online or at your local autoparts store- AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, etc.).

OK, this is what you'll need to do:

  1. 1

    Raise the front of your vehicle and place it on jack stands (to gain access to the starter motor).

  2. 2

    Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal.

    You'll reconnect it back in one of the following steps; for now, it's a safety precaution as you set up the test.

  3. 3

    Attach one end of the remote starter switch to the battery positive (+) post.

  4. 4

    Attach the other end of the remote starter switch to the S terminal of the starter motor solenoid.

    This is easier said than done, so take your time and make sure the connection is on the S terminal of the starter motor solenoid.

    Also, in case you're wondering, you can leave the starter motor solenoid's S terminal wire connected to the engine's wiring harness connector or not, the test will work either way.

  5. 5

    Reconnect the battery negative (-) cable to the battery negative post.

  6. 6

    Apply 12 Volts to the S terminal wire of the starter motor starter solenoid with your remote starter switch.

  7. 7

    You'll get one of two results:

    1.) The starter will activate and will turn over the engine.

    2.) The starter motor won't do a thing.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The starter motor cranked the engine. This means that the starter motor is good and that you have an electrical issue keeping the starter motor from cranking the engine.

The next step is to go to TEST 2 and see if the starter motor solenoid is getting the Start signal on the S terminal wire (circuit). Go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The Starter Motor Is Getting An Activation Signal.

CASE 2: The starter motor DID NOT crank the engine. This usually means that your starter motor is bad and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

I suggest one more test and this is to test the battery cable (that attaches to the starter motor solenoid) for corrosion. This can be accomplished very easily with a voltage drop test. Go to: TEST 3: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery Cable.



Ford Vehicles:

  • E150, E250, E350 (4.6L, 5.4L)
    • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
  • Expedition (4.6L, 5.4L)
    • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
  • Explorer (4.6L)
    • 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
  • Mustang (GT & Cobra)
    • 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
  • Thunderbird (4.6L)
    • 1995, 1996, 1997

Lincoln Vehicles:

  • Aviator
    • 2003, 2004, 2005
  • Mark VIII (4.6L)
    • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998
  • Navigator
    • 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
  • Town Car (4.6L)
    • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005

Mercury Vehicles:

  • Cougar (4.6L)
    • 1995, 1996, 1997
  • Grand Marquis (4.6L)
    • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005
  • Mountaineer (4.6L)
    • 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005