The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor in the 1997-2009 4.6L and 5.4L Ford E-Series vans is a two-wire reluctance sensor that isn't to difficult to test.
In this guide, I'm gonna show you how to test it and where to grab a new one if needed. The awesome part about this test is you only need a multimeter. No fancy tools required—not even a scan tool.
Contents of this tutorial:
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E150: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
- 4.6L, 5.4L V8 Ford E250: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
- 5.4L V8 Ford E350: 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009.
Important Tips And Suggestions
TIP 1: The CKP sensor's signal is measured while the engine is cranking. To get the most accurate test result, the battery should be fully charged. A low battery will cause the engine to crank slower than normal and you're not gonna see a good CKP sensor signal result on your multimeter.
TIP 2: You'll may need to jack up the vehicle to gain access to the CKP sensor. Use a jack stand to hold the van up in the air. Do not trust the jack! Use safety glasses also. Think safety all of the time!
TIP 3: The first thing you should do, before testing the CKP sensor is checking a couple of the spark plug wires (4.6L) or ignition coils (5.4L) for spark with a spark tester. Why? Well if even just one spark plug cable has spark, this tells you that the CKP sensor is OK.
In other words, when the crankshaft position sensor goes bad, you'll get a no-spark no-start condition. So, if you're getting spark, even if in just from one spark plug wire, the CKP sensor is good and this test will not help you.
Symptoms Of A Bad CKP Sensor
The most obvious symptom of a bad crankshaft position sensor is an engine that won’t start. Specifically, the engine will crank but not start due to a lack of spark and fuel injection.
Specifically, you'll see:
- No Spark: The ignition coil pack is not going to fire spark to all six spark plugs.
- No Fuel Injection: The fuel injection computer is not going to activate the fuel injectors.
- Trouble Codes: On that rare occasion the PCM stores a CKP diagnostic trouble code (DTC), you'll see one of these:
- P0315: CKP Sensor Relearn Problem.
- P1309: Misfire Monitor Disabled.
- Check Engine Light (CEL): The computer often detects the CKP sensor malfunction, sets a CKP DTC and illuminates the CEL to alert you.
It's not uncommon for the CKP sensor to malfunction intermittently. Specifically, it'll work perfectly fine most of the time and stop generating a CKP signal to the fuel injection computer every now and then.
When this happens, you might find your van's engine running fine most of the time but occasionally running rough or not starting at all.
If the CKP sensor stops generating and sending its signal, the fuel injection computer is supposed to throw up a CKP sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and light up the check engine light the next time you start the engine.
Unfortunately, it's really quite rare to see the fuel injection computer set a CKP sensor DTC.
Should I Test The CKP Sensor Or Just Replace It?
When dealing with a CKP sensor diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and/or signs pointing to a faulty sensor (like the engine cranking but refusing to start), most people opt to swap out the sensor right away instead of testing it. Here's why they might go down that route:
- The CKP Sensor Won't Break The Bank: Buying a new CKP sensor won't cost you an arm and a leg. Its affordability makes replacing it outright tempting enough to just skip the testing phase.
- A Matter of Saving Time: Setting up the CKP sensor test can eat up a lot of time, more so if the issue comes and goes or is a pain to pin down (intermittent problem).
- Access: Setting up the test connections on the CKP sensor's connector wires can be a challenge, mainly because the CKP sensor and it's wiring are a bit of a pain to access.
For these three reasons many, including professional shops, see replacing the CKP sensor as the faster fix.
Ultimately, the decision to replace the CKP sensor without testing it depends on factors such as cost, time constraints, tools, and your level of diagnostic expertise. If you want to simply replace the CKP sensor, you can find my recommendations here: Where To Buy The CKP Sensor And Save.
If you test it, then this guide will help you test it using a multimeter (to measure the sensor's output signal) and find out if it's good or bad without having to replace it.
Where To Buy The CKP Sensor And Save
The following links will help you comparison shop for the CKP sensor of known automotive brands -Delphi, Standard Motor Products, and Hitachi (no knockoffs):
NOTE: Not sure if the CKP sensor fits your particular Ford van? Don't worry, once you get to the site they'll make sure it fits by asking you the specifics of your particular vehicle. If it doesn't fit, they'll find you the right CKP sensor.
Testing The CKP Sensor Signal With A Multimeter
As I pointed out earlier, the CKP sensor is a reluctance type sensor. This means it generates an AC voltage signal as the pulse ring on the crankshaft swings by its tip.
So, if the engine's turning over or running, the CKP sensor is busy making an AC voltage signal. To check if it's doing its job (making a CKP signal), we're gonna connect our multimeter to its wires and give then crank the engine.
If everything's OK with the CKP sensor, your multimeter will show an AC voltage signal bouncing between 0.5 and 1.2 Volts AC.
IMPORTANT: This test is done with the CKP sensor connected to its electrical connector.
OK, these are the test steps:
- 1
Unplug the CKP sensor from its electrical connector.
You may need to remove some of the plastic wire loom protector and/or the black electrical tape that shields/protects the two wires of the CKP sensor. - 2
Connect the red multimeter test lead to one of the two wires of the connector.
IMPORTANT: Make sure your multimeter test leads DO NOT interfere with the crankshaft pulley or the serpentine drive belt, since you'll be cranking the engine in one of the following steps. - 3
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the remaining wire of the connector.
IMPORTANT: Make sure your multimeter test leads DO NOT interfere with the crankshaft pulley or the serpentine drive belt, since you'll be cranking the engine in one of the following steps. - 4
Reconnect the connector to the CKP sensor.
- 5
Turn the multimeter's dial to Volts AC.
- 6
Have your helper crank the engine when the test is set up and you're standing a safe distance from the engine.
- 7
Your multimeter should register an AC voltage between 0.5 to 1.2 Volts AC while the engine is cranking.
When the engine is not cranking, you should see 0 Volts AC.
NOTE: Your multimeter will not register a steady AC voltage. Instead, the reading will fluctuate between 0.5 to 1.2 Volts AC continually as the engine is cranking and only when the engine is cranking.
OK, let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered the indicated AC voltage with the engine cranking. This test result indicates that the CKP sensor is good.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register the indicated AC voltage with the engine cranking. This test result confirms that the CKP sensor is fried. Replace the crankshaft position sensor.
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!
