Testing the camshaft position (CMP) sensor is actually pretty simple —and you don’t need a scan tool or any pro-level tools to do it.
With just a multimeter and this tutorial, you’ll be able to quickly figure out whether the sensor’s bad or good.
Whether you’re an experienced wrencher or a home mechanic, I’ve got you covered with clear, no-fluff steps to help you get the answers you need to troubleshoot the CMP sensor.
Contents of this tutorial:
- Symptoms Of A Bad CMP Sensor.
- How Does The CMP Sensor Work?
- Should I Just Replace The CMP Sensor Without Testing It?
- Where To Buy The CMP Sensor And Save.
- Camshaft Position Sensor Connector Pinout.
- TEST 1: Testing The CMP Signal With A Multimeter.
- TEST 2: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting 8 Volts.
- TEST 3: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
- Installing The CMP Sensor: Air Gap Clearance.
- More 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan Tutorials.
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 3.3L V6 Chrysler Town & Country: 2001, 2002, 2003.
- 3.3L V6 Chrysler Voyager: 2001, 2002, 2003.
- 3.3L V6 Dodge Caravan: 2001, 2002, 2003.
- 3.3L V6 Dodge Grand Caravan: 2001, 2002, 2003.
IGNITION SYSTEM TESTS:
- How To Test The CKP Sensor (2001-2003 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
- 1999-2001 Coil Pack Diagnostic Tests (Chrysler 3.3L) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
- How To Test The Coil Pack (2001-2008 Chrysler 3.3L, 3.8L) (at: easyautodiagnostics.com).
WIRING DIAGRAM:
- Ignition System Wiring Diagram (2000 3.3L Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- Ignition System Wiring Diagram (2001-2003 3.3L Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
OTHER CMP SENSOR TEST TUTORIALS:
- How To Test The CMP Sensor (1990-1993 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CMP Sensor (1994-1997 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CMP Sensor (1998-2000 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test The CMP Sensor (2004-2007 3.3L V6 Chrysler And Dodge Minivan).
Symptoms Of A Bad CMP Sensor
A failed camshaft position (CMP) sensor on your 2001-2003 3.3L V6 Chrysler or Dodge minivan will trigger the check engine light (CEL) and lead to driveability problems.
These are some of the most common symptoms of a bad CMP sensor:
- Engine won't start: The starter turns the engine, but it refuses to catch and run.
- Hard starting: You'll notice long cranking times, especially on cold starts.
- Stalls while running: The engine might shut off out of nowhere.
- Rough idle or surging: Idle speed can become erratic, with occasional misfires.
- Weak acceleration: The engine may hesitate or feel underpowered when you step on the gas.
- Stored P0340 DTC: The PCM stores this code when it loses the camshaft signal or detects a problem in the sensor's circuit.
How Does The CMP Sensor Work?
The CMP sensor is a Hall-Effect type sensor, and the reason it has 3 wires coming out of its connector.
It relies on a steady power supply of 8 Volts and Ground from the PCM to operate correctly and produce an usable signal.
As the engine turns, the sensor produces an ON/OFF digital signal —a square wave that toggles between 5 Volts and roughly 0 Volts (0.3–0.5 Volts). This waveform communicates camshaft position to the PCM.
The PCM uses this ON/OFF voltage pulse to control fuel injection and ignition timing with precision. You'll often hear this pattern described as the ON/OFF signal or "digital cam signal".
Should I Just Replace The CMP Sensor Without Testing It?
It's super common for both DIYers and shops to just replace the cam sensor as a first step —and honestly, that often does the trick.
Since the CMP sensor isn't expensive and takes just a few minutes to swap, it's a valid option that might just save you the time it takes to test it.
If you're going to replace it, check out the links below to save some bucks on it purchase and also see:
But if you'd rather confirm it's actually the problem before spending money, the test instructions in this tutorial will guide you through it step-by-step.
Where To Buy The CMP Sensor And Save
The following links will help you comparison shop for the camshaft position sensor:
CMP Spacer: Air Gap Spacer
NOTE: If you're installing a new sensor or removing and reinstalling the same one, see: Installing The CMP Sensor: Air Gap Clearance.
Camshaft Position Sensor Connector Pinout
| CMP Sensor Circuits | ||
|---|---|---|
| Terminal | Wire | Description |
| 1 | Brown with pink stripe (BRN/PNK) | 8 Volts DC |
| 2 | Dark blue with dark green stripe (DK BLU/DK GRN) | Ground |
| 3 | Dark blue with grey stripe (DK BLU/GRY) | CMP Sensor Signal |
TEST 1: Testing The CMP Signal With A Multimeter
To start our camshaft position sensor diagnostic, we'll run a simple signal output test while turning the engine by hand (we won't be using the stater motor).
This CMP sensor signal output test will help us confirm if it's generating the ON/OFF voltage pulse the PCM needs to do its job.
The thing to keep in mind is:
- ON: Signal voltage at 5 Volts.
- OFF: Signal voltage at 0 Volts.
If you don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours? This is the one I use and recommend: Tekpower TP8268 AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter (at: amazon.com).
NOTE: Don’t use the starter motor to turn the engine —it spins the engine too fast for your multimeter to detect the ON/OFF voltage switching back and forth.
CAUTION: To access the crankshaft pulley bolt, you may need to raise your minivan. If you do, make sure to support it with jack stands —never trust the jack alone.
IMPORTANT: The CMP sensor must stay connected to read its ON/OFF signal output. You'll access the signal using either a back probe (on the connector) or a wire-piercing tool on the wire. You can see an example of this tool (and where to buy it) here: Wire Piercing Probe.
Alright, here's the game plan:
- 1
Disconnect the ignition coil pack connector.
IMPORTANT: Always do this first —you don't want the engine starting during testing. - 2
Set your multimeter to Volts DC mode.
- 3
Ground the black meter lead directly on the negative (-) post on the battery.
- 4
Back-probe the sensor's dark blue with grey stripe (DK BLU/GRY) wire or pierce the insulation with a probe tool.
NOTE: The CMP sensor must stay connected to its engine wiring harness connector during the test. - 5
Turn the ignition key to ON (engine off).
- 6
Turn the crankshaft manually.
Use a ratchet and socket to rotate the crank pulley slowly and steadily clockwise. - 7
You should see a clean switching pattern between 5 Volts and around 0.3–0.5 Volts as you slowly turn the crankshaft pulley.
Let's break down what that result tells us:
CASE 1: The ON/OFF voltage is present. Excellent —this confirms the sensor is operating normally.
The switching signal on your multimeter means the camshaft position sensor is alive, producing a valid signal, and is getting the required power and Ground. No need to go further unless you're chasing another issue.
CASE 2: No signal response. Recheck your test connections, make sure you're testing the correct wire.
If there's still no response, the next step is to confirm that the sensor is receiving its 8 Volt supply from the PCM. Go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting 8 Volts.