TEST 2: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting 8 Volts

If your CKP sensor didn't show any ON/OFF voltage signal in the previous test, the next step is to check if the PCM is actually feeding it the required 8-volt power.
This power comes in through the brown with pink stripe (BRN/PNK) wire at the sensor's 3-wire connector.
In the pinout diagram above, I've marked the terminal connected to the BRN/PNK wire as pin #1.
Here's how to test for power on that wire:
- 1
Disconnect the crank sensor connector.
- 2
Hook up the black multimeter lead to the battery's negative (-) post.
- 3
Turn the key to the ON position —don't crank the engine.
- 4
Set your multimeter to read Volts DC.
- 5
Touch terminal #1 with the red multimeter lead.
NOTE: Make sure you're on the right pin —it should be the one connected to the BRN/PNK wire. - 6
You should see a reading between 7.5 and 8 Volts.
Now let's break down what your reading tells you:
CASE 1: You're getting 7.5 to 8 Volts. That means the PCM is doing its job and providing the correct voltage to the CKP sensor.
Your next step is to make sure it's also getting a proper Ground. Head over to: TEST 3: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
CASE 2: You're seeing 0 Volts. Double-check your connections and make sure you're testing the correct terminal.
If it still reads 0, then there's likely an open-circuit in the BRN/PNK wire between the CKP connector and the PCM.
Your next move is to trace and repair that wiring issue so the sensor gets the power it needs.
TEST 3: Making Sure The CKP Sensor Is Getting Ground

Here's what you've confirmed so far in the testing your CKP sensor:
- TEST 1: The CKP sensor isn't putting out an ON/OFF signal.
- TEST 2: It's receiving 8 Volts from the PCM like it should.
Now it's time to check the Ground side of the circuit —specifically the DK BLU/DK GRN wire, which connects to terminal 2 of the sensor's connector.
IMPORTANT: This Ground comes directly from inside the PCM. Never apply battery power to this wire —you'll fry the computer instantly. We'll use your multimeter to do a safe voltage drop test instead.
Here's what we need to do:
- 1
Disconnect the CKP sensor from its connector.
- 2
Attach the red multimeter lead to the battery's positive (+) post.
- 3
Turn the ignition key to the ON position (engine OFF).
- 4
Set the multimeter to Volts DC mode.
- 5
Touch the black test lead to terminal 2 on the sensor connector.
NOTE: Make sure that terminal 2 is indeed the one connected to the DK BLU/DK GRN wire. - 6
You should see a voltage reading between 10 and 12 Volts.
Here's how to interpret your result:
CASE 1: Multimeter shows 10–12 Volts. Perfect. That tells us the PCM is providing a solid Ground to the CKP sensor.
If you've already confirmed the sensor has power (TEST 2) but still no signal (TEST 1), the sensor has failed and needs to be replaced.
CASE 2: No voltage shown. Double-check your test setup and run the test again.
If you're still not seeing 10 to 12 Volts, you likely have an open-circuit in the DK BLU/DK GRN wire between the PCM and the CKP sensor.
You'll need to trace that wire and fix the break to get the sensor working again.
More 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan Tutorials
You can find a complete list of 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth minivan tutorials in this index:
Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:
- P0171 Diagnostics (1996-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- P0420 Diagnostics -Catalytic Converter Tests (1996-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Check For Vacuum Leaks: Carb Cleaner Spray (1991-2010 3.9L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).
- How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1991-2010 3.3L V6 Chrysler, Dodge, And Plymouth Minivan).

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