TEST 2: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting 8 Volts
In this test section, we're gonna make sure that the orange with white stripe (ORG/WHT) wire is supplying the CMP sensor with 8 Volts.
The ORG/WHT wire connects to the terminal labeled with the number 1 in the illustration of the CMP connector above.
These 8 Volts are provided by the fuel injection computer. To check for their presence in the ORG/WHT wire, we'll perform a voltage test with the multimeter with the key in the RUN position (but with the engine OFF).
NOTE: On the 2000 2.0L Stratus (Breeze), the wire supplying 8 Volts to the CMP sensor is orange (ORG). It does not have a white stripe.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Disconnect the CMP sensor from its electrical connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 4
Gently probe the female terminal labeled with the number 1 with red multimeter test lead.
NOTE: Terminal 1 should connect to the ORG/WHT wire. - 5
Have your helper turn the key to the RUN position but don't crank or start then engine.
- 6
Your multimeter should register 7 to 8 Volts.
OK, let's see what your test result means:
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 7 to 8 Volts DC. This the correct test result.
Now that we've confirmed the CMP sensor is getting power, the next test is to see if it's getting Ground. Go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Ground.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 7 to 8 Volts DC. Recheck your connections and try the test again.
If still no 8 Volts, then this test result eliminates the CMP sensor as bad, since without this voltage, the CMP sensor will not produce a CMP signal.
The most likely cause of these missing 8 Volts is an open-circuit problem in the ORG/WHT wire between the CMP sensor connector and the fuel injection computer's connector.
TEST 3: Making Sure The CMP Sensor Is Getting Ground
So far, your CMP sensor tests have confirmed:
- The CMP sensor is not producing an ON/OFF voltage signal (TEST 1).
- The CMP sensor is getting power (TEST 2).
In this final test step, we're gonna make sure that the black with light blue stripe (BLK/LT BLU) wire is delivering Ground to the sensor.
IMPORTANT: You got to be careful not to connect this wire to battery 12 Volts or you run the risk of damaging the fuel injection computer. The multimeter voltage test I'm suggesting below is a safe way to test for the presence of Ground in the BLK/LT BLU wire.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Disconnect the CMP sensor from its electrical connector.
- 2
Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery positive (+) terminal.
- 4
Gently probe the terminal labeled with the number 2 with the black multimeter test lead.
NOTE: Terminal 2 should connect to the BLK/LT BLU wire of the connector. - 5
Have your helper turn the key to the RUN position but don't crank or start the engine.
- 6
Your multimeter should register battery voltage (10 to 12 Volts DC).
Let's examine your test result:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC. This indicates that the fuel injection computer is providing a Ground path for the CMP sensor.
You can conclude that the CMP sensor is bad if you have:
- Confirmed that the camshaft position sensor is not producing an ON/OFF voltage signal (TEST 1).
- Confirmed it's getting 7 to 8 Volts (TEST 2).
- Confirmed it's getting Ground (this test section).
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC. Recheck your connections and try the test again.
If your multimeter still does not register the 10 to 12 Volts, the BLK/LT BLU wire is not delivering Ground and without it, the CMP sensor will not work.
The most likely cause of this missing Ground is an open-circuit problem in the BLK/LT BLU wire between the CMP sensor connector and the fuel injection computer's connector.
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!