How To Test: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A and B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

TEST 1: Resistance Testing The A/T Clutch Pressure Solenoid A Or B

How To Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

The multimeter resistance test, in this test section, applies to both A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B since both are tested in the exact same way (and the resistance spec is the same for both too).

This test will also give you the opportunity to make sure that the solenoid assembly's connectors are not broken.

NOTE: The easiest, fastest way to test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B is removing the solenoid assembly off of the car.

OK, this is what you need to do:

  1. 1

    Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.

    Don't have a multimeter or need to upgrade yours? Check out my recommendation: Buying A Digital Multimeter For Automotive Diagnostic Testing (found at: easyautodiagnostics.com).

  2. 2

    Measure the resistance between solenoid pins #1 and #2.

    Remember, this test applies to either A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B.

    NOTE: Clutch pressure control solenoid A's connector is brown and clutch pressure control solenoid B's connector is black.

  3. 3

    Your multimeter should register approximately 5 Ohms if the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid is within specification.

Let's find out what it all means:

CASE 1: The resistance was approximately 5 Ohms. This test result tells you that the solenoid's internal coil is OK.

The next step is to bench-test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid and apply 12 Volts and Ground to it. For this test, go to: TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground.

CASE 2: The resistance WAS NOT approximately 5 Ohms. This test result tells you that the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid that you're testing is fried and needs to be replaced.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A, then this test result confirms trouble code P1768: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B, then this test result confirms trouble code P1773: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical.

TEST 2: Manually Applying Power And Ground To The Solenoid

How To Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L) How To Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L) How To Test A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A And B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

We can bench test the clutch pressure control solenoid by manually applying power and Ground to it and seeing if the valve (inside the assembly) moves in a smooth/un-binding way.

The easiest and safest way to do this is using a power probe since a power probe lets you apply both Ground and power with a click of a button but not everyone has one (not too mention that they're kinda' expensive).

You can make your own jumper wires and I suggest using alligator clips with rubber insulating protectors (see photo 3 of 3 in the image viewer).

Using alligator clips with rubber insulating protectors will help you avoid shorting out the jumper wire that's carrying the juice (from the battery) to the solenoid.

OK, this is what you need to do:

  1. 1

    Connect terminal #1 to battery power of the particular solenoid you're testing (A or B).

    NOTE 1: Take all safety precautions when applying these 12 Volts to the terminal.

    NOTE 2: Clutch pressure control solenoid A's connector is brown and clutch pressure control solenoid B's connector is black.

  2. 2

    Connect terminal #2 to Ground of the particular solenoid you're testing (A or B).

  3. 3

    You should be able to see the valve move, of the solenoid you're testing (inside the assembly) as soon as you Ground solenoid terminal #2 (see image 2 of 2 in the image viewer).

    If all is good, the valve (which is visible from the under-side of the assembly) should move. When you un-Ground the solenoid, the valve should move back to its original position.

Let's see what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve moved. This is the correct and expected test result.

If you're still having a A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A or a A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B trouble code, take a look at the test suggestions found here: Solenoids Are Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.

CASE 2: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve DID NOT move or is binding. This test result tells you that the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid you just got done testing is fried and needs to be replaced.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid A, then this test result confirms trouble code P1768: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A Electrical.

If you're testing A/T clutch pressure control solenoid B, then this test result confirms trouble code P1773: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B Electrical.

Honda Vehicles:
  • Accord 2.3L
    • 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002
  • Odyssey 2.2L, 2.3L
    • 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998
  • Prelude 2.2L
    • 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000
Acura Vehicles:
  • CL 2.2L, 2.3L
    • 1997, 1998, 1999
Isuzu Vehicles:
  • Oasis 2.2L, 2.3L
    • 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999