You can easily verify if the No Start Condition on your Ford F150 (or Expedition, or Crown Victoria, or any 4.6L or 5.4L equipped car, pick up, or SUV) is due to a Lack of Fuel. In this ‘How To’ Test Article, I’m gonna’ show you how to do it using one of two different diagnostic techniques.
One troubleshooting technique involves using Starting Fluid and the other involves using a Fuel Pressure Gauge. Both methods will effectively let you know if the Fuel Pump is pumping fuel or not... but only one is 100% accurate.
Here are the contents of this article at a quick glance:
A word of caution: Starting Fluid and Gasoline are extremely flammable, so you need to be very careful around them. The tests I’m presenting to you here can be easily and safely done (and I’ve done them lot’s of times without any unwanted and unhappy accidents)... if you take all necessary safety precautions, stay alert and use common sense.
You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Cómo Probar la Bomba de Combustible (Ford 4.6L, 5.4L) (at: autotecnico-online.com).
I’m going to jump into the Lack of Fuel troubleshooting with the Starting Fluid Test. This is probably the fastest and the one that does not require any expense to do (like buying a Fuel Pressure Gauge). With this test, you will be able to confirm if the No Start Condition, on your Ford Expedition (Cougar, Thunderbird, Explorer, Mountaineer, etc.), is being caused by a lack of fuel (although it’s not the most accurate way of diagnosing a BAD Fuel Pump).
Before you jump into the actual test (on your F150, Mustang, Thunderbird, Navigator, Grand Marquis, etc.), you must first check that the Ignition System is creating and delivering Spark to all of the Spark Plugs. This is important cause if there’s No Spark... none of the tests in this article will help you. Not only that, this No Spark results tells you that the cause of the No Start is not due to a BAD Fuel Pump.
OK, enough talking... let’s get this ball rolling:
Disconnect the Air Intake duct from the Throttle Body. The end that connects to the Air Filter box (or canister) can remain connected to it.
Manually open the Throttle and spray Starting Fluid down the bore and then, quickly, reconnect the Air Duct to the Throttle Body (you don’t have to tighten the Hose Clamp).
Once the Intake Air duct is back on the Throttle Body, have your helper crank the engine.
Having the Intake Air duct back on is a safety precaution, since the Starting Fluid could cause a back-fire to come out thru’ the Throttle Body.
One of two things is gonna happen:
1.) The engine will start, even if it’s just momentarily or for a few seconds and then die or.
2.) The engine will only crank but not start at all.
Alright, let’s interpret your results by choosing one of the following CASES:
CASE 1: If the engine started, even momentarily: This test result indicates that the No Start Condition your Ford vehicle is experiencing is due to a lack of Fuel.
This test result usually confirms that the Fuel Pump is BAD (in about 80% of the cases) and replacing it will solve the No Start problem... but not always.
In about 20% of the cases, this Lack of Fuel could be caused by a blown Fuse, a BAD Fuel Pump Relay, a triggered Fuel Pump Interrupt Switch etc. So, keeping this in mind, I suggest you do two more things:
Remove the Fuel Line that connects to the Fuel Injector Rail (this is the one that delivers Fuel from the Fuel Filter) and place it in a container. When ready, have your helper bump the starter motor while you verify if Fuel comes out or not. No Fuel coming out of the Fuel Line further confirms a BAD Fuel Pump.
Find the wire (circuit) that feeds power (12 Volts) to the Fuel Pump and with a Multimeter in Volts DC Mode, verify that 12 Volts are reaching the Fuel Pump when you crank the engine.
CASE 2: The engine did not Start, not even momentarily: This indicates that the No Start Condition is NOT due to a Lack of Fuel.
Now, since a Starting Fluid test is not the most accurate way to find out if the Fuel Pump is BAD, I suggest you do one more test...
... This is to remove the Fuel Line that connects to the Fuel Injector Rail and place it in a container. Then have a helper bump the starter while you check to see if Fuel comes out of the Line and into the container.
By doing this, you are visually making sure that there is Fuel present, which further confirms that the Fuel Injectors are getting Fuel.
For further testing options, go to Related Articles. Here you’ll find other ‘How to Test’ Articles that may be of help.
“Don’t worry about avoiding temptation. As you grow older, it’ll avoid you.”