The clearest indication that the Crank Sensor on your Ford 3.0L or 3.8L car, mini-van or pick up has failed, is a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition.
Since so many things can cause a No Start, it's always a good idea to tests the components suspected of causing the No Start first before replacing them. In this article, I'll show you how to test the Crank Sensor with a Multimeter in Volts AC mode.
Here are the contents of this article at a quick glance:
TIP 1: The Crank Sensor is located right behind the Crankshaft Pulley, since the Crank Sensor's reluctor wheel is behind (and part of) the Crank Pulley .
TIP 2: Since this is an On Car Test of the Crank Sensor... you'll need to crank the Engine to test it. For this reason, the Battery on your Ford vehicle must be fully charged.
TIP 3: You’ll need to jack up the vehicle to gain access to the Crank Sensor. Use a jack stand to hold the car up in the air... do not trust the jack! Wear Safety Glasses to protect your eyes from falling debris. Think safety all of the time (your safety is your responsibility)
TIP 4: When the Crank Sensor goes BAD, you’ll get a No Spark- No Start Condition... so, if you’re getting Spark, even if in just one Cylinder, the Crank Sensor is good and this test will not help you.
When the Crank Sensor goes BAD on your Ford 3.0L or 3.8L vehicle, the very first symptoms you'll see is a No Start No Spark Condition affecting your car.
Here are some more specific symptoms of a BAD Crank Sensor:
The Crank Sensor on your 3.0L, 3.8L Ford car or mini-van is a two wire reluctor type. Ford labels this sensor as a Magnetic Transducer type.
In plain English, this means that this type of Crank Sensor creates its own voltage signal without an external power source. Here are some more specifics:
Bottom line is that if the Crank Sensor fails in your Ford vehicle, it's not going to start due to a lack of Spark and Fuel.
“A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.”